And when did you last see a broken headlight??? I'll bet it was a
GLASS sealed beam unit.(or involved in a serious collision). Used to
be you had stone holes in headlights on a very regular basis. Don't
see that today ( a function of both material and "aproach angle" -
sloped aerodynamic headlights bounce the stones off)
Ohhh, yeah. Remember also that those sealed-beams were made as cheaply as
possible (which was partly the point behind the US sealed-beam law), so the
glass was really thin.
Plastic is a lot more forgiving of impacts, so even those vehicles which
present a near-vertical surface to stones do not crack the way glass lenses
I never had much of a problem with glass lenses. Put many miles on
vehicles with E-code headlights (basically the same thing as a sealed
beam assembly, but with European beam pattern and a replaceable H4 or H1
bulb instead of the unitized halogen capsule.) Some of those lights
have outlasted the vehicles on which they were first installed.
I have had to replace at least one composite headlight due to fogging
and finally bad condensation inside the reflector.
I can't remember ever having a physically broken headlight...
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
Hella and Cibie headlights went from car to car untill I bought a car
with Quads that the big ones didn't fit - lead crystal lens on the
On my '67 Peugeot I shortened the car by about 10 inches and swayed
the front over by 4 inches and didn't crack the headlights (glass
composite headlamps) - thankfully since they were worth as much as I
paid for the car. (by the way, we FIXED that car without replacing any
body panels - just bumper, grille, and battery. - good panel-beaters)
On Saturday, April 28, 2012 6:34:54 AM UTC-4, Herb Eneva wrote:
Ive used polishing compound on mine and it has worked great. I applied it by hand instead of a drill but I didnt start taking care of the problem after 10 years. I have been doing it about once a year starting at about the second year I owned my 10 year old truck.
hand instead of a drill but I didnt start taking care of the problem after 10
years. I have been doing it about once a year starting at about the second year
I owned my 10 year old truck.
what he said. the "headlight restoration kits" you see advertised are
basically just the same thing. Just sand them down with some fine grit
(1000, 1500 etc.) sandpaper, then buff with rubbing compound, polish,
then wax. Or just buy the kit - if you don't have a good auto body
supply around, and/or don't do body work and therefore have the need to
keep supplies around to cut and buff orange peel out of paint, then it's
not that expensive in the grand scheme of things. Just understand that
once you've done this, you've removed the UV-protective layer of your
headlights, so they will "fog" up that much more quickly again. A good
way to maintain them is to simply polish and wax them whenever you do
What you're seeing is a combination of actual sandblasting by road
debris (which you probably won't get out) and degradation of the top
layer of the plastic due to UV damage (which you *can* polish out for a
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
I have 3 vehicles. 1992, 2001 and 2007. 3 different brands. All have good
clear headlight lenses. I when I wash and wax them I use Nu Finish wax even
on all the plastics. This is good for fiber glass on motor homes. Found
this out from a friend that has a motor home. All my vehicles still look
like new despite being out in the sun. My $.02 worth WW
More auto junk from Detroit. Back when they still made GOOD cars, you
never needed to do shit like this. When a headlight burned out, you
spent $5 for a new bulb, and 10 minutes to install it. If that was my
vehicle, I'd raise hell with the manufacturer, and insist they replace
it for safety reasons. If they dont, sue the bastards.
Dont you just love the new technology, cheap plastic headlights, cheap
fuel pumps (built like kids toys) that die and leave the driver
stranded, and the list goes on. Modern cars are GARBAGE!
I'm with you, mine do break down, now and again. But much more seldom than
before. My work van just rolled over 200,000 miles, and it's still a
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
Yup. I'm driving a car with 100,000 plus on it, and it starts every
When I was a kid, several! decades ago, a car that old wouldn't
reliably make it to the grocery store.
I haven't changed a flat tire in probably 30 years. When I was a kid
I did it so often I became skilled at it.
Back in the 50's, you'd have had a ring job at 50k, rings & bearings by 80k,
scrap at 100k
Every 5k clean the plugs and replace them at 10k. Not to mention carb
adjustments, choke problems, points and rotor.
Yep-- I aim for at least 200K miles these days. And that's likely
with 1 new set of plugs, no points, and a couple or 3 timing belts -
but that's the only time the timing is looked at.
also the oil changes are 5-7K apart insteat of 2K. the tires last
50-60K per set. The alignment lasts and lasts. . . .
Oh-- and the body in these NY winters. used to show signs of rust
in 2 yrs. My 10 yr old Impala has no rust showing. [there is some
rot in the undercarriage]
OTOH- those accursed alloy wheels suck big time. [at least the early
2000 ones, and before, did-- maybe they've improved] Slow leakers
within a year of new tires being installed on every type of tire I've
used since 1986.
And if you think Detroit gets a pretty penny for replacement parts--
pick up some Audi, Honda or Subaru headlights for fun.
On Thu, 03 May 2012 21:26:39 -0400, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
I've still got the original plugs in the Toyota (~250k), and the current
timing belt's done 150k (it's not an interference engine, so it's become
a bit of a minor amusement to see how long it lasts). Some of my '70s
cars had timing chains and the replecement interval on those was only 30k
(but it'd take me less than an hour to do, and they were cheap, so it
wasn't like it was a big deal)
Yeah, been there with 1970s ones for sure... I had them tubed in the end
(which used to be legal where I lived at the time, but I don't think is
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