Length/diameter and often trimmers use angle not just straight flush.
Flush trim come in multitudes of sizes and diameters; you only need
short and preferably smaller diameter (chip out is less) for laminate.
To add on some clarification . . . there are small hand held laminate
trimmers (small router type tool) that use those bits as opposed to a
much larger typical wood working router that uses the "flush trim"
And to add some clarification on the clarification... :)
I point the latter out because in a home repair group I figure it's far
more likely the average reader has a regular router than a laminate
trimmer at hand...
Reason I was asking, I have some flush trim bits that I was practicing with
on an old countertop that I removed the edge band from. Some of the bits
when run on the countertop WITH the edgband still on them left a noticeable
mark on the edgeband. The only way I felt safe was to adjust the cutting
edges to just the size of the laminate. I could tell not difference in the
1" dia. bit and the 3/8" Dia bit. Are you supposed to adjust them so that
the cutter bits are not below the top piece of laminate, or do I not have a
precise enough bit?
A mark from the cutter or the bearing?
If the bearing runs free and is the proper diameter there should not be a
mark from either regardless of the cutting depth if the top and edge are 90
degrees from each other. Best guess is that the angle was less than 90
degrees in which case the bearing would be slightly inboard of the cutter;
in that case, the deeper the cutter was extended, the farther inboard it
would cut. IOW, the bit is probably precise enough but your counter isn't.
If they're properly made and sized, you should be able to trim flush w/o
scoring the bottom material noticeably. (I'm assuming here you're
talking of the cutter not the bearing burning since raising the depth
makes it go away apparently; the bearing would be a problem still, just
That said, if the edge isn't square or your base isn't perfectly square
or you're not holding the router firmly on the counter top, it's
possible you could be causing a problem.
Or, of course, a slightly undersized bearing or lax tolerances on the
grinding of the profile diameter.
Are these known brands or just no-name imports?
As for the diameters, if you didn't get chipping w/ that large a cutter
I'll wager it wasn't Wilsonart or some of the other laminate products. :)
They were cheep no name bits I got to practice with. I looked at some name
brand bits tonite at a big box store and they have a little distance between
the bearing and the cutters. I am sure that the cutters are a bit larger
than the bearing. Will get a good quality one before I try the new laminate
Not sure it is old stuff and looked like formica to me.
one has the guide bearing on the end away from the shank,and the other has
the bearing close to the shank.
the bearing-away-from-shank bit is the laminate trim bit.
the other one is for pattern following,since the pattern mounts on top of
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