I have an older 18" fluorescent lamp that takes a 15WT8 bulb. As of this morning, it no marcha. I suspect the starter switch, which is your glass- tube type and is pretty black inside.
The problem is, I can't find any 15W starter switches at any location close to me. I can, however, cheaply and easily find a white, cylindrical starter switch that says, "13w, 30w, 40w" on it.
Can I use this "13w, 30w, 40w" switch with my 15w lamp?
Should be able to - the worst that can happen is it will STILL be dead. And when you say "older" you should REALLY be saying OLD. It's been a couple of decades since a "starter" has been used on a flourescent lamp.
snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
What puzzled me is that specific wattages were indicated, rather than an upper-and-lower range of wattages. This suggested to me that there was some characteristic of the starter that rendered it functional--or safely functional--only at those specific wattages.
I am, as you may be able to tell, not an electronics expert. But I know enough to be able to keep from electrocuting myself, and from setting fire to my surroundings.
(I have now also asked my question in sci.electronics.repair, where I fully expect to be inflicted with 3rd-degree burns for having failed to ask an intelligent question. I invite you to amuse yourself by following my progress in that group...)
The fixture is a GE unit that's at /least/ 15-years-old and bears the "Order Code" number "UCF18P/CND".
This picture is what I'm identifying as a "starter":
The silver thing at rear appears to be a potted coil.
Any starter good for 13W will slao work fine at 15W
"hr(bob) snipped-for-privacy@att.net" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@k28g2000yqc.googlegroups.com:
Took you three tries to tell me that?
your giving WRONG information on availability and use of starters and YOU CANT EVEN SPELL FLUORESCENT ????
I do lighting as a business........35+ years........yes the starter you mentioned will work fine.
another poster says starters havent been used in decades..........they are full of crap.
Lowes, Home depot, pet stores (aquarium lights) still sell this type of fixture and these are in CURRENT PRODUCTION with fixtures of this type,
4watt t-5 6watt t-5 8watt t-5 14watt t-8 14watt t-12 15watt t-8 15watt t-12 20watt t-8 20watt t-12 various pl lamps use built in glass type starters anything with 2 pins. and rarely 30watt t-8 30watt t-12all of the above up to the 20 watt are currently available as FRESH STOCK from any decent lighting supplier.
the 4' t-12 40 watt bi-pin and 5' F-90 t-17 have not been available since the mid 1970's except as special order replacements.
Herb Harrison owner Harrison Lighting & Neon
ps see
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tegger" Newsgroups: alt.home.repair Sent: Friday, January 06, 2012 4:29 PM Subject: Fluorescent starter-switch question
I just had a 20 inch (or so) light fixture go bad. I'd gotten it free, taking apart some equipment in about 1995, and used it for many years to light the hall of my trailer. Went to Walmart, and bought something similar for under ten bucks. Unless this is really essential to get the same light going again, I'd give a serious look at replacement.
Of course, you know your situation better than I.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
The problem is, I can't find any 15W starter switches at any location close to me. I can, however, cheaply and easily find a white, cylindrical starter switch that says, "13w, 30w, 40w" on it.
Can I use this "13w, 30w, 40w" switch with my 15w lamp?
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in news:zZPNq.12492$ snipped-for-privacy@news.usenetserver.com:
I did visit Home Depot and another hardware store, but what I found there was not what I wanted. I did not think of Walmart, though. Will try that today. And I will pick up that starter anyway; for $4, it's worth a shot.
"Harrison Lighting and Neon" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news4.newsguy.com:
Thank you.
Now, does it matter which leg of the cylindrical starter goes on which wire? I don't have the starter yet, so I don't know if there are designations for each pin.
If there were, I'd figure the pins would been different sizes. Cram, twist, light.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
Thank you.
Now, does it matter which leg of the cylindrical starter goes on which wire? I don't have the starter yet, so I don't know if there are designations for each pin.
nope........on TWO pin starters direction dosent matter.............many years ago a 4 pin starter was available ( this would qualify as OLD ) anything you buy today that is close in wattage will work........at the very worst lamp will blink but not get damaged.
For under counter lighting I'd never go to flourescent any more with LEDs being at the state of development they have now reached.
As for desk lamps, likely the same - but the OLD desk flourescents I've had around - up to 45 years old now - did not use a starter - they used a "start button". You just hold the button down 'till it glows and flickers, then release and the light is on.
Other tha special purpose lights (like aquarium lighting) I thought virtually everything flourescent of recent design and manufacture used rapid start ballasts.. I guess that may still be true - but the specialty stuff, although of recent manufacture, is still of early design. Why change what isn't broken?
snipped-for-privacy@news4.newsguy.com:
no it does not matter, sorry about the 3 postings earlier, my computer went bonkers
harry wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@n6g2000vbz.googlegroups.com:
I'm glad you suggested that, since I didn't think of it.
I did just what you suggested, and...nothing. No spark, no light. I then checked across the terminals of the starter and found roughly 2.5VDC. This drops to 0 if I turn off the on/off switch.
Then, since I'm considering the fixture to be junk anyway, I just cut off the starter and checked between the open ends of the wires. Same 2.5VDC. Held the wire-ends in contact, and nothing.
I'm finding continuity everywhere you'd logically expect to find it, and I tried three different bulbs, two brand-new.
I can't see that 2.5VDC is correct. The problem then must be the ballast, and not the starter?
"Harrison Lighting and Neon" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news7.newsguy.com:
I don't think it's the starter that's wrong. See my reply in the other thread.
So I screwed up. Fire me.
I have a desk lamp that predates the common use of starters. Instead it has a momentary on push button switch to turn it on. Some antique juke boxes I work on also have a starter switch for the fluorescent lights.
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