Fluorescent lighting problem . . .

[Ray]

Our kitchen has three under-the-cabinet flourescent lights. Suddenly two out of the three tubes won't come on.

The one nearest the switch still comes on, but not the next two.

It's not the tubes, because I tested all three in the one that works, and they all come on.

Sometime ago I noticed a very slight, intermittent popping noise -- almost like a water-drip -- in the area of the second on the line.

I notice that when I take the tubes out of the non-functioning holders, the ends of the tubes are quite warm.

I've tested all circuit-breakers.

Any guidance appreciated.

[RBM]

First check the power and ground connections. Next try new lamps, as they get older they're more dificult to light.The fact that they work in the one fixture means little. Next, you could replaced the ballast transformers, but I'd sooner replace the fixtures, preferably with Xenon

[EXT]

Are these fixtures the old fashioned type (I still see them for sale) that use a "starter" can, this is a small aluminum can shaped item that twists into a socket on the side of the fixture or under the bulb. The clue is the warm ends of the tubes. A starter can that has failed, will keep the ends glowing but will fail to light the tubes. If this fixture uses starter cans, buy replacement starters rated for the bulb wattage and replace the defective ones. They just remove with quarter turn to the left and a pull. Alternatively is to replace the fixtures with something different.

[Don Klipstein]

In article , RBM wrote in part:

Xenon undercabinet fixtures are merely improved incandescent ones. (Actually the light sources ahve this improvement.) Energy efficiency of xenon incandescent is a couple notches above that of conventional incandescent of same voltage, wattage and life expectancy - still a fraction of that of good fluorescent fixtures.

- Don Klipstein ( [e-mail])

[Don Klipstein]

Keep in mind that bad bulbs are hard on starters, and bad starters are hard on bulbs. You may have to replace both nearly simultaneously.

You only have to remove one item (bulb or starter) to stop the malfunction-related-stress on the other item.

- Don Klipstein ( [e-mail])

[RBM]

Don, what do you recommend as "good" undercabinet fluorescents? Years ago when they were all T-12, they were fine, but ugly,then when they went to T-8 magnetic, I had nothing but trouble with them until Alko came out with the "little inch" with the Radionics ballast. They were great for a number of years, and now everyone's cloned them with varying degrees of quality. In the past few years if I'm doing an undercabinet fluorescent job, even with Alko brand,about 20% of the things don't work, right out of the box

[ransley]

Ive used about 26 of the HDepot T8 18" [GE brand I think] in the last year with no issues, the units have bulbs and wall plugs, but are offered in different styles. I have had these cheap T8 units lasting

20 years. 20 years ago they were cheaper than Cfls and the least expensive way to get a low watt flourescent. I used to use them in apt buildings for hall lights before I found Cfls for a 1$.

[Ray]

Thanks to one and all for helping with this. It turned out that the problem was defective ballast transformers, which I bought for $15 each and installed myself.

All the lights are on now.

-- Ray