Yes. I built a wookroom inside a metal building and put 2 foot high
pegboard above all the workbenches, drywall everywhere else. Set the top of
the pegboard as high as I could reach comfortably. In this case, I had to
put shims between the 1/4" thick pegboard and the studs so it would come out
flush to the 1/2 inch thick drywall.
The only thing I wish I had done is fasten the pegboard to the studs with
screws so I could easly replace a damaged section, and, the pegboard flexes
in and out between the studs, so the joint at top and bottom between the
drywall and the edge of the pegboard rubs and flakes off the drywall. I
should have put blocking horizontally between the studs at that joint. If
you are not going to put wallboard next to the pegboard, then you would not
have this problem.
That is what I used. My concern yet is -- in the process of installing
hooks through the holes in the pegbard do I poke holes in the kraft paper?
Since I nailed the pegboard on, it is difficult to pull out a section and
I had the same situation, first in a metal building then in an
I used 1/4" TEMPERED 4'x8' pegboard and it was stiff enough that there
was no flexing - the spacing in the metal building was the full width
(8') but I mounted the pegboard on 2"x2" frame with a couple of 2"x2"
vertical pieces. In addition to spacing the pegboard away from the
wall, it stiffened it as well.
I just moved the whole unit from the metal building to the unfinished
garage - still works fine.
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