Establishing Property Line For A Fence

So what did they quote? Mine was $100 / hr to reestablish a line.

Also, make sure the line is in fact ON the rod. Sometimes they're displaced.

Usually you put a fence a few inches inside the property line, just so there is no issue about whose property it's on. Ideally you would find both iron rods on that side (front corner and back corner) and run a string between them -- that is the property line -- then put the fence just inside that. The rods are often buried a couple inches deep but are usually not too hard to find if you know generally where it should be. Of course, they are easy to find with a metal detector!

Well, since I'm using the rod to _find_ the line, how do I use the line to make sure the rod is not displaced as you say?

I have not called the survey company yet. But I'm glad to know that pricing info, thanks. If it's that much, I'll probably just find it myself, then go a few inches in just to be safe.

Yes, I can see how doing a string between the front and back iron rods would be best. I would have to destroy about 80 feet of fence to do that though :(

I think I'll tie on to the front rod, then tie on to the last fence post, then go a few inches in just to be safe as you suggested. Thanks for the info.

(snip)

In my community, a side-yard fence may not extend beyond the back of the house (toward the street). You ought to check with the local building department.

Roby

Tie a line from the front of the property to the rear, putting in a temporary stake about a foot or so outside the property stakes. Then measure in a foot to make sure you are clearanced properly at any given point on the property line. This should eliminate having to tear down fence to make sure things are done properly. There is nothing better than knowing first hand where things *should* be.

Remove "YOURPANTIES" to reply

MUADIB®

On 1/31/2005 8:46 PM US(ET), MUADIB=AE took fingers to keys, and typed th= e=20 following:

Except where knowing first hand, where things are *allowed* to be, which =

a visit to the local building department.will determine. Between the=20 time the original fence was built and the current time, setback codes=20 may have changed. I know that 20 years ago, the fence setback in my area was 6" for a 6'=20 foot high fence. It is now 3'. I have to get a permit to replace damaged portions of my fence, although =

I am grandfathered at 6"

--=20 Bill

Talk to your City Surveyor he will know the correct way and it is free.

It is designated on the survey.

The fence on the opposite side of my house (my fence) extends 30 feet past the back of the house towards the street, also I see many other houses in my neighborhood have fences that extend past the back of the house so I guess I thought I was safe. I don't want to tear down though so I'll probably check the codes just in case.

This seems strange to me. Why would the fence separating two properties not be built *on* the boundary, straddling it, with the owners of the adjacent properties sharing the cost? -- unless, as on one side of our property, there is a drainage easement, in which case, I assume, no fence could be built at all.

Perce

On 01/31/05 06:06 pm Heathcliff tossed the following ingredients into the ever-growing pot of cybersoup:

On 1/31/2005 10:18 PM US(ET), Percival P. Cassidy took fingers to keys, and typed the following:

If your fence is on the line, there is no place for you to fix, paint, or otherwise touch the outside of your fence without trespassing on your neighbor's property.

I think it is a safety issue to avoid disputes later.

For one thing, I'm not willing to share the cost. I don't want a fence and it my neighbor does, it is on him 100%. If accidentally he strayed on my property with it I'd not be happy about it.

In some neighborhoods, you are correct and both may share the cost. The next problem is 20 years later when both have moved and new people reside there and the fence needs repairs. One says OK, the other says No.

I had the original surveyor come out to do it. He used a metal detector, found the iron rods and staked them for $100. I could have done that. The cost of the survey is dependant on how far back the surveyor has to go to establish a reference. The original surveyor would know where the references are. More importantly is knowing your communities regulations. I couldnt extend my fence beyond the front of the house even though I could point to a dozen houses that had done so. But than I had gotten a permit and the others all eventually got letters asking them to demolish their fences. In addition the codes required the fence to be 6 inches inside the property line with the good side facing out.

Usually --

Where the fence cost is shared between neighbors, the fence is built on the property line. Where one wants a fence and the other won't, or can't share the cost, the builder constructs it within his own property. Since wall thickness including footings is commonly no more than one foot, it is common to offset the fence six inches so that no part is on the neighbors property. This generally eliminates the need to get his concurrence with the need for, and type of construction. Consult city staff and any local CC&Rs for local requirements as to type, extension toward the street, height, ---- SJF

people in this group are very confronational. there is a simple solution.

go talk to the neighbor. show him where the line is as you see it. show him where you are going to build the fence. then get him to sign something that says he agrees to have the fence there.

worry about problems if they actually arise.

randy

Surveys around here run about $300, but having one is a sure way to avoid any disputes later. I'd find the rods myself, then make sure the fence is a couple inches inside the property line.