Hmmm. I can see the cylindrical shape would fit inside the hole, but wouldn't the stuff inside leak out when you drilled the smaller hole through the can? ;)
R
Hmmm. I can see the cylindrical shape would fit inside the hole, but wouldn't the stuff inside leak out when you drilled the smaller hole through the can? ;)
ROn Wed, 14 Oct 2009 06:20:45 -0600, "Doug Brown" wrote Re Re: Enlarge a hole in studs:
That's pretty nice.
you figgered your own solution. use a plug from a 2" hole as a pilot on your larger hole saw.
s
That is one nifty tool. It's on my shopping list so I can get rid of the box of plywood pieces that have accumulated from prior mistake corrections. Thanks, Doug.
Joe
Joe:
Read the description carefully.
"...mandrel is threaded to accept saws with 1/2" and 5/8" diameter mounting holes."
You'll need hole saws with 2 different sized mounting holes to use the Oops Arbor.
In other words, your "mistake size" hole saw will need a 1/2" mounting hole while your "fixed it size" hole saw will need to be 3/8".
You'll get rid of the plywood pieces, but may have to add a bunch of duplicate OD hole saws.
I'd stick with the plywood if it works for you.
this:
Many times you can put two hole saws on one regular arbor and do the same thing.
snipped-for-privacy@dog.com wrote: ...
That'd be my first thought having seen that but hadn't thought of it before. Then at least if don't have right size(s) what you get will fit the arbor you have...
Primary difficulty I'd foresee is whether arbor is long enough to stack the two and still have sufficient thread length.
Since this is not a piece of furniture, use a jigsaw to make the hole larger.
Why do people think that because it won't be seen it's not important? I'd say roughly 2/3s or more of the hacked holes in studs and joists end up creating a stress concentration point and splitting the wood. Drilled holes rarely do that unless they are drilled too near an edge/ end.
R
And properly enlarged with a rotozip leaves no "rizers" to encourage splitting either.
Well, there's roughing out and hacking...
_I_ think it isn't worth spending a lot of time on because it simply isn't and a vertical non-loadbearing wet wall has so little bending stress these imagined stress concentration points are not going to be failure points.
A main, load-bearing beam some reason to care, this application, "not so much". There are far better places to spend the amount of time MC was talking about to fixup the problem. (Of course, if he had bothered to measure the hole or test fit a piece after the first one, it would have saved the whole problem from arising, but that's another story... :( )
--
Agreed it is not critical in a non-load-bearing wall.
Most splits in wood start as shrinkage checking, and/or seasonal changes in humidity, not from excess load. A hacked hole has jagged edges that concentrate the stress.
Instill good habits. I would also venture that a hole saw in a reasonable drill would take less time than using a reciprocating saw, jigsaw or Rotozip.
RDoug Brown posted for all of us...
Mads by Starrett I believe.
Yep, that was posted about #12 in this thread and commented on a couple of times.
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