Read the description carefully.
"...mandrel is threaded to accept saws with 1/2" and 5/8" diameter
You'll need hole saws with 2 different sized mounting holes to use the
In other words, your "mistake size" hole saw will need a 1/2" mounting
hole while your "fixed it size" hole saw will need to be 3/8".
You'll get rid of the plywood pieces, but may have to add a bunch of
duplicate OD hole saws.
I'd stick with the plywood if it works for you.
That'd be my first thought having seen that but hadn't thought of it
before. Then at least if don't have right size(s) what you get will fit
the arbor you have...
Primary difficulty I'd foresee is whether arbor is long enough to stack
the two and still have sufficient thread length.
Not so neat hole, use the sawzall.
Neat hole, router (if room)...a 1/2" bit with 1/4 shank bit can do it by
extending the cutter partially through the hole so you can use the shank to
guide on the existing hole; after doing that, use a 1/4" cutter from the
opposite side (or bottom bearing flush trim bit from the same side) and
guide the shank on the enlarged portion of the hole to trim the rest of the
hole to size.
Why do people think that because it won't be seen it's not important?
I'd say roughly 2/3s or more of the hacked holes in studs and joists
end up creating a stress concentration point and splitting the wood.
Drilled holes rarely do that unless they are drilled too near an edge/
Well, there's roughing out and hacking...
_I_ think it isn't worth spending a lot of time on because it simply
isn't and a vertical non-loadbearing wet wall has so little bending
stress these imagined stress concentration points are not going to be
A main, load-bearing beam some reason to care, this application, "not so
much". There are far better places to spend the amount of time MC was
talking about to fixup the problem. (Of course, if he had bothered to
measure the hole or test fit a piece after the first one, it would have
saved the whole problem from arising, but that's another story... :( )
Agreed it is not critical in a non-load-bearing wall.
Most splits in wood start as shrinkage checking, and/or seasonal
changes in humidity, not from excess load. A hacked hole has jagged
edges that concentrate the stress.
Instill good habits. I would also venture that a hole saw in a
reasonable drill would take less time than using a reciprocating saw,
jigsaw or Rotozip.
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