On Dec 20, 8:22 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Yes. Run the furnace. A gas furnace produces heat by burning natural
gas. The only thing that requires electricity is the sparker to light
the flame (negligible), and the blower (usually a small 1/3-1/2HP
Forget the microwave. I have a Honda 1000 and a SMALL microwave.
Startup current is over 1000W even on a small microwave. The Honda
will run my window unit AC, though.
Have you got a gas cooktop/oven in your apartment? All those require
is a tiny amount of electricity to run the sparker and hold the safety
shutoff valve open.
These people that say you can't run anything off a 1000W generator
have no clue about electricity. Few if any of your true "critical"
systems at home require more than a few hundred Watts. It's when you
try to run them all simultaneously that you run into trouble.
On Dec 20, 3:28 pm, email@example.com wrote:
Where would you run a gen that is at least 15 feet away, where
hopefully no Co enters your home and it wouldnt get stolen at the
complex. Neighbors might just say fumes bother them since they are out
of power. The quiet Honda inverter is expensive, if you have a porch
it might work, but it could easily poison you even with windows and
That's kind of why I didn't want a gas engine powered
solution.... the potential CO problem
But..... what abt deep discharge batteries? Wont they
give off fumes if in the house as well? Must they be
outside as well?
On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 19:20:40 -0600, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
If you use batteries, use "starved electrolyte" or "AGM" batteries. No
gassing. Optima YellowTops are a good reasonable solution - or go with
Hawker Genesis EPs if your budget stretches that far (they are PRICEY,
but excellent batteries)
On Dec 20, 10:22 pm, email@example.com wrote:
Optima batteries are GARBAGE. Everyone I know who's tried them has
been sadly disappointed with their performance.
Those so-called "deep cycle" batteries are also GARBAGE. They don't
The only lead-acid batteries that are any good these days are true
golf cart batteries.
On Dec 22, 12:45ï¿½pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
yeah no batteries last long, your far better off using a inverter
connected to your vehicles battery.
deep cycle batteries have just a one year warranty and their capacity
decreases fast over a period of a few years
On Mon, 22 Dec 2008 09:45:56 -0800 (PST), email@example.com
Well, that may or may not be true, but I will agree that a couple of
people I've known who bought them and who were disappointed had known
electrical problems with their vehicles they chose to address by
buying the Optima battery rather than fix the electrical problems.
Idiots. So maybe the problem with Optima batteries is the people who
How are you going to run the furnace since you rent? It's not like you
can rewire it for operation from an extension cord. Or are you going to
use the kitchen stove for heat? (hopefully it's gas)
I just tried out my little Yamaha generator (inverter, 2000W continuous)
today for the first time feeding the house. It will power my fridge and
furnace and a few lights all at once with no problems -- but it will not
power the fridge and both freezers at once if they are all starting at
the same time.
I actually replaced a few of the compact fluorescents with 100W
incandescent bulbs because the generator was not happy with all the
inductive loads I had initially. It kept idling down and then surging.
The Honda EU2000i might have handled everything better even though
it's only rated 1600W because you can disable the "Smart Throttle" on
it. (It's on all the time on the Yamaha) OTOH, maybe I just need to set
the idle a little faster on the Yamaha.
But I don't need to run both freezers at the same time, and in an
emergency in the winter, could just put all the food in big cardboard
boxes out in the garage and leave the freezers unplugged (and open so
they don't stink.)
I don't know
The more advice I get about this the more I'm starting
to think that "bugging out" is better option..... that
is to pick a predetermined place to go and stay till
electricity comes back up
Maybe I should forget abt buying gear for staying put
(generator, etc)..... and instead buy gear for packing
up and hiking out (backpack, clothing, camp gear,
a cheap harbor freight 2500 watt generator is probably best bet for
cheap infrequent use
batteries dont last but a few years.:(
A 1000 watt 1500 surge inverter with jumper cable connection to the
gals car would provide a rotating power source in a emergency. no fuel
storage, no noisey generator, useful on trips. cost around a 100
I have 3 generators, a 800 watt one, a 2500 watt one and a 4000 watt
but mostly we have used the 1000 watt inverter........
run off you vehicle with it idiling, provides power, no fuel storage,
no cranky hard to start infrequently used generator. inverters have
lots of advantages, just piuck the size you want. add jumper cables
for quick connection.
We have used our inverter for trips, picnics where there is no power
had wonderful time with sno cone machine at a picnic grove with no
power. kids loved making sno cones
At an apartment complex leave the keys in a running motor? Maybe in a
gated, guarded complex. What about alternator life, or the car looses
coolant. I would not do it for more than a few minutes to get heat
with my car.
I'd recommend the generator option but you must address several issues:
First you must isolate your electric system from other tenants in the
building, and from the local utility while you're generating. If you
don't do this the best case is that the generator will trip out from
overload. worse case, you will electrocute some poor lineman trying to
restore your service. Usually this isolation is done by installing a
transfer switch at your service inlet. This switch allows you to power
your house from the electric line or your generator, but not from both
at the same time.
List all the devices that you intend to power and find out how much
power they consume.
Develop a plan about how you will dispatch the devices. To size the
generator you need to decide which devices you need to run, and which
devices you will run at the same time. After you have done this you can
then size the generator based on the maximum load. For example if the
refrigerator and furnace (running at the same time) would overload the
generator you can shut one off while the other is running. By developing
a load management strategy you can get by with a much smaller generator.
Locate the generator in a well ventilated area outside your residence
where the exhaust and noise will not bother you or the neighbors.
Keep a reasonable amount of fuel on hand, in a safe place.
Locate fire suppression (extinguishers) equipment in an area that you
can get to if the fuel supply or the generator should catch fire.
Finally have the whole system inspected by a capable electrician before
you turn it on.
EJ in NJ
Wow; a lot of responses, some good, some well, not so.
Basically IMO it depends on what you need and how long an outage you
want to plan for.
As long as it's only a little light, the radio & maybe small TV, you
would be fine with 12V devices. If you need to continue life as though
the power weren't out, neither solutio would help unless it was a good
If you have to provide heat (freezing weather or colder) or air
conditioning, use anything that draws substantial current (any large
item; refrigerator, freezer full of meat, microwave, toaster, lots of
lights and gosh knows what, you should work out the wattage you need by
adding those all up according to what's on the nameplates, and get a
generator of at least that much capability, which may top 3,000 watts
In a way, living alone adds additional btu requirements since there
aren't others there to contribute body heat either.
IMO if you don't have to worry about refrigerators, freezers, furnaces,
air conditioners, you'd be fine with batteries; just check how long they
last at the loads you'll place on them and go from there.
Oh, and if you have well water, you'd have something else to power,
We have a 5,000 Wat generator and it will run our well pump, fridge and
freezer and a few lights all at once. But usually we kill the
regrigerator/freezer to run the well pump just to keep the generator
from being overly taxed; everything on makes it work really hard should
they all demand power at the same time.
There's a transfer switch: Start the genset and flick the switch, and
it turns on the house power thru its own set of breakers. So be sure to
add a Transfer Switch to the cost if you fo the generator route.
They're arond $100 plus installation which you'd need permission from
the owner to do.
In the overall, batteriy power it best if it can give you enough to
do the things you need to do for as long as the longest period of time
you think you'll need it.
Hmm, maybe a battery system and a small genset to charge the battery
system if it's needed? Nothing to install that way; just plug the
battery chargers nto the genset when you need to charge it. No transwer
switch, no installation.
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