I find those receptacles listed in a 1925 Westinghouse catalog, which I
assume predates NEMA. Some are rated at 10 amps 250 volts, others are rated
10 amps 250 volts - 15 amps 125 volts, however the receptacles are
identical. I suppose, back in 1925 you needed to know how it was wired
before you plugged into it.
On Fri, 25 Dec 2009 22:23:30 -0500, email@example.com wrote:
Do you admit it (2-15R receptacle) is missing from that chart?
If it looks like anything, shouldn't it be in the chart? All the other
plugs have matching receptacles. What happened to this one?
Anyway, would you ever want to plug a 2-15R into the receptacle Nate
was talking about?
I've always heard them called "T-slots". At least about 20 years ago
they were available and used for replacements on ungrounded circuits.
Never heard what the function of the horizontal slots was. Was there a
real old 115V plug configuration with both slots horizontal? I never
tried, but I suspect the horizontal slots are not wide enough (long
direction) for a 220V plug.
The NEMA 2-15 style was the standard plug for a 220v circuit before
WWII. This would usually be a heater since the room A/C was not around
When you used a T slot on 110v plugging in a 220v heater would not
cause a problem, it would just provide 1/4ths the heat.
... at least that is the story I have heard
Have no idea about the amps stuff for the electric outlets , just
using what an electrician told me to use after I had him here several
years ago to swap out my "split buss" electrical main panel. I think
that was the term. It had no main shut-off and was always hot.
Made me nervous when I had to replace a faulty water heater circuit
breaker before I had the panel upgraded. I wore rubber boots. Two
pairs of thick rubber gloves, stood on a board and said my prayers
when I did that circuit breaker swap out.
The new outlets he told me to use seem pretty quality -- and of course
cost $4.50 a pop. They seem to be more "rubberized" sort of material
instead of the brittle plastic of the contractor-installed original
I originally asked the electrician how to remove the wires from the
"spring catches" without breaking apart the old outlet. He just
ignored my question and gave me an empty outlet package and told to
replace them with "this kind."
FYI, your old split buss panel didn't have "a" main breaker, it had several
main breakers including the one you changed. The main wires in your new
panel are still live regardless if the breaker being on or off.
What? Did I miss something? Kill the two Main breakers in my panel, and the
only power left in the box is going TO those breakers. Nothing, nada, on
the power bars or anywhere else. I know for sure; I always check for power
presence either with a meter or the ol' screwdriver test (but not inside the
Or was that just a bad attempt at sarcasm? <g>
Position the wire ends so a clean screwdrive can be pressed against one wire
while moving the screwdriver over and past the other. If no sparks, solidly
connect the two wires for a quick moment. Got sparks? The power's NOT off!
Alternatively you can take just one wire and pass the screwdriver across
the metal box or ground wire; will tell you if you've got a hot neutral too.
I know some people who'll make a solid contact right away, figureing
they'll pop the breaker that way but that's bad advice. Fire possibility in
the walls, weakening of the breaker mechanism, etc.. The screwdriver test,
done correctly, results in neither of those.
Actually, it's also handy to prove or disprove that the 100V you're
seeing with a meter is a phantom voltage. Or not. <g>
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.