From what you've written, I can't tell what you've missed, didn't miss, or
what you're talking about.
My statement to the OP, was that even in a panel with a single main circuit
breaker, there will be live wires even with the main turned off, similar to
that of a split buss panel. The only difference is that the upper buss
always remains live in the split buss panel, even with all the mains turned
Only this: In any panel I've ever been into, which doesn't measure in the
hundreds but is quite a few, and this included my own:
Main breakers kill power to the entire iinards of the box except for their
input side. The input side can only connect to the meter, which, unless
pulled, leaves the input sides powered.
Power only exists on the wires coming FROM the meter up TO the main
breakers. There will be NO power on either of the busses, either phase, or
anywhere else. With the Mains turned OFF, NOTHING is powered, no voltage
exists except as noted above, which is kinda a necessity.
What's so hard to understand about that? When you open the two phases
coming INTO the box, nothing else has a source of power. Same as pulling the
meter except there wouldn't even be power to the Main Breakers then.
Transformer feeds meter feeds Mains Breakers, feeds individual house
breakers that hang on the busses. It's that simple, no?
That was essentially the point I was making to the OP. There is always live
power in the panel, even with the main off, albeit only at the terminals to
the main breaker. This is not exactly true with a split buss panel however.
The main wires don't connect to a breaker, but instead, they connect to the
terminals feeding the main breaker buss, which generally holds up to six
double pole breakers. One of those breakers feeds the lower buss. This
entire upper buss is live regardless of the position of the main breakers
attached to it, making it a little more dangerous to work in live.
Never had one yet that wouldn't assuming you have a small-enough blade
to actually insert into the opening and push it sufficiently far enough
to actually release the spring.
Even w/o, a pair of pliers and pulling while rotating back and forth and
the wire will "walk" back out. Certainly no need to destroy the
receptacle (or switch/whatever).
Did you even THINK to draw a diagram of how the OLD outlet was wired? Seems
obvious that you haven't a clue how it was wired. Was the white on the side
of the outlet with the silver screws and the black and red on the side with
the brass screws. each on it's own screw?
The new outlet has a piece of metal that ties the two sockets
together. If you have separate wires (black and red) going to each
individual outlet, you need to break that tab off on the black/red
side of the outlet.
Well; worked before the rewire, doesn't work after the rewire. Whatever was
done was botched somehow. Could have been simply a wire-stressed switch that
quit working and once the stress was relieved by taking the wires off and
putting them back, the switch could work. But the wires don't seem to have
been put back properly. I've seen cheap switches that wouldn't work if the
wires stressed them just right, as in twisting the outlet, which ends up
straight because of the screws holding it in.
Because of the "red" wire and the outlet controls, I'm wondering if this
isn't actually a 3-way switch? In which case not putting the wires back
properly would cause the same problem described. Right?
Pretty hard to see it very clearly from here<G>.
Suppose the OP was among the 10% of males who are color-blind, he
couldn't tell the difference between the gold and silver screws. He
could probably tell the difference between red, black and white wires.
I can't remember the stats, but it's something like 8% have
red green color blind problems, some percent are "shades of
grey" color blind, maybe 1%.
I'm in the third category. I've got three what I call "color
groups". Often I can't tell blue or purple. And often I
can't tell yellow or orange. And often I have trouble with
red, green, and brown. I've learned to carry red acetate on
heating jobs, to help tell colors. And to have someone else
check the colors before I power up equipment.
OP again...As I thought I mentioned in my original post, all wires
were put in exactly as on the original outlet. Didn't need to draw a
diagram to remember where to put the three (well four with the ground)
wires in relation to the new outlet. Actually, I usually just snap a
digital pix when I do need to replace complicated car wiring, etc.
It was just that crazy copper tab that needed "fixin" LOL
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.