In the area where we live both materials are acceptable. I haven't gotten any estimates yet, but we need to put in a new driveway where none existed before. Any idea of the approximate difference in cost between the two materials?
TIA
Can't tell you, but be sure to compare life cycle cost, not just up front cost. I expect concrete will be more upfront, with much longer life and lower maintenance.
It depends on the price of oil, cement, and local labor, right? Last time I looked (before the most recent spike/fall in oil prices), asphalt drives were being installed for about $2/sq ft, and concrete ones were easily double that. That was with minimal prep and no additional material.
I don't think that's going to mean a whole lot for you and your area. Best to call around and get some local estimates. Keep in mind that contractors can play games with the PSI of the cement and the depth of the asphalt, so make sure you are comparing apples to apples. Permit/inspection fees may apply if you are tying into a public road.
Clearly, you are... Who's on first?
I just don't understand why folks are in such a rush to pave the driveway.
Gravel works just fine, thank you, and you don't have much runoff as rain usually just soaks in.
I had 220 tons of road base put on mine. Still need a couple of 17 yard dumps to trim it up. I love mine.
Steve
Andy writes: I don't know about asphalt, but 70 miles south of Dallas, Texas, a concrete driveway that is 4" thick with rebar on 1 foot centers is around $3.50 per square foot.
Andy in Eureka, Texas
If your contractor is used to doing public roads you won't be able to afford either.
Gravel grows weeds, needs regarding due to shifting from traffic and you can't drive a regular (not all terrain) forklift on it.
on 4/7/2009 11:49 PM (ET) John Gilmer wrote the following:
...and sinking the gravel into the mud. I had a shale driveway before I had enough money to pave it. After a while, I had 2x12s laid down to get to the car doors.when the ground was wet. Gravel has to be added to regularly. It is also more difficult to remove snow from it. Can't use a plow nor snowblower.
Ever mow the grass in the spring after having shoveled snow off a gravel drive all winter?
As for the runoff, there apparently is "pervious concrete" available which allows rainwater to enter the ground *through* the concrete; I find that intriguing but have yet to actually see any IRL or speak with anyone who has such a driveway installed, so I can't say whether that has any disadvantages relative to regular concrete or not.
nate
Actually, you can use a snowblower on a gravel driveway. You have to drive over the first few inches of snow to get an even base pack, set the skids on the snowblower to keep it up a couple inches and then only clear down to the base pack.
I assume it must have to be installed thicker than 100% dense concrete to have the same strength.
cheers Bob
Thats about what a properly done driveway cost here in NC too. A lot of homes were buit with about a 2 inch slab, no reinforcing material at all. You can get these for about $2.00 a square foot. They are guaranteed to start falling apart in about 4 years.My electric and water service cross beneath my drivway so when I rebuilt it I Installed a couple of PVC pipes beneath the driveway just in case they ever need maintenance.
Jimmie
BAD IDEA! All it takes is one piece of gravel to get mixed with snow say by a tire spinning, and it will get tossed a long way.
snow blower will toss snow 5 or 6 feet, a piece of gravel 20 thru whatever is around..... like a window:(
a old neighbor liked gravel driveways, but tired of mud and needing more gravel.
he had his dug out deep, 2 inches of low grade asphalt applied on a thin base, and covered it with a foot of gravel.
must of been 20 plus years ago still looks great today.
Last time I checked up here in Ontario a cheap concrete driveway was twice the price of a good asphalt driveway - and even a cheap concrete will outlast a good asphalt.
Use air entrained high strength concrete with re-bar and expansion joints ever 12 feet max in all directions.
If you can get "grout" for the top inch or more it will cost more, but last virtually forever. The driveway my Dad had put in 30 years ago still looks like new - salt, winters, and all.
You CAN have concrete coloured.
There are "driveway blocks" that are 8" thick "honeycombs" that you can actually fill with topsoil and grow GRASS on. These drain very well if filled with crushed limestone or sharp sand. Drain like gravel, wear and clear like concrete. Weeds grow through like cheap asphalt.
Under those conditions 2" (compacted) of fine asphalt would do the job and be your cheapest alternative. 3 or 4 inches would be better, but you don't have winter or vegetation issues, yout base is solid, and your usage is light. If you plan on having heavy trucks on the driveway in future, go thicker.
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