What a great post. To me, low amount of leakage indicates that the problem is crud related and fixable. I'll see. I appreciate the time you spent writing your post, it is pretty much on target. I have a megger, but, I think, will start with disassembly and good cleaning.
i
It trips GFCI outlets; repair it or cut the cord off and throw it away.
If you need to ask how to repair it ... cut the cord off and throw it away.
I would like to know the reasoning behind your opinion (that if I have to ask how to fix it, I should throw it away). My experience with repairing various things (spa, compressor, a diesel generator are some examples) suggests that asking intelligent people nicely results in good suggestions and finally in good results.
You apparently think otherwise and I would like to know why.
i
First step is to dissassemble and clean the drill - and with a good ohm-meter check for shorts to ground from the field winding (quite common) or the brush holders. It is POSSIBLE the brush holders are just dirty - conductive brush dust etc on the surface.
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There should be a law forbiding people from throwing away old metal-bodied power tools.
Jon
OK, if I cannot fix it, I will let you know, maybe you can pick it up and do whatever you want with it. I think that you live nearby, IIRC.
i"Ignoramus15109"wrote: (clip) I would like to know the reasoning behind your opinion (that if I have to ask how to fix it, I should throw it away (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I will answer for Mike. There was something about the tone of your original post that could be mistaken for naivity. In following the rest of the thread, including your various responses, I have concluded that expressions like, "leaks electricity to the case" and "what would be a typical application for this drill" were not indicative of your non-newbie status. Clearly, to anyone who read the whole thread, it should be clear that you not only know what a *megger* is, but you have one, and you know a little something about the whole subject.
Maybe Mike jumped in and posted without reading the whole thread.
PLEASE don't throw that rugged old drill away. If necessary, use it on a non-GFI circuit and wear a pair of rubber gloves. It just occurred to me--maybe this whole thing was just an excuse for you to gloat over the possession of such a fine old drill. ;-)
"Ignoramus3408" wrote in message news:8f_Kf.3814$ snipped-for-privacy@fe28.usenetserver.com...
The most likely cause of the problem is that carbon dust from the brushes has coated the inside of the drill and allows a small current to leak from the active line to earth. Take the drill apart, clean off the dust with an alcohol dampened rag and re-assemble it. Earth leakage devices are very sensitive and will trip at the least bit of current to earth.
Tom
I believe that you have an extra "not" (or "non") somewhere above.
Otherwise, yes, I think that Mike made some assumptions that were not, in fact, true.
I know a little bit and have done a few electrical projects. Nothing really advanced, but somewhere at or a little above the level of repairing an old metal cased drill.
Not really. The more I think about it, the more I realize that I should sell it, as even my 1/2" Dewalt drill is too powerful for my hands. I would get no benefit from this drill, it is designed for men stronger than I am. I will likely sell it after I repair it. I first though to keep it, and then realized that it is too strong for me, torque wise. As it often happens, I may change my mind.
i
Your suggestion does not contradict any of my observation. I will do as you suggest tonight. Thanks a lot.
i
metal-bodied
Thanks for the thought Iggy, but I live in Oregon.
Jon
Leo wrote: (clip) not indicative of your non-newbie status. (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Igor-amp-us wrote: I believe that you have an extra "not" (or "non") somewhere above. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ to which Leo responds: No. I think I have the right amount of double negativity. The meaning I was after was, "Your writing style fooled us by sounding like it came from an uninformed person."
| >>
| >> When plugged into a GFCI outlet, it leaks electricity to ground and | >> pops the GFCI breaker. The leak is substantial, I believe, however | >> when plugged into a regular breaker (and handled with caution | >> appropriate for leaks to case), it actually works and does not blow | >> the breaker. So, I think, the leak is limited in extent. | >
| > Let's just say I would not want to be handling that drill nor would I | > allow an employee or family member to handle it. It is time to have it | > repaired or replaced. | | I gotta agree with that! | | So... any idea of how to approach repairing it? I suspect that | something very simple is wrong, like related to brushes or some such.
If you can see into the drill and there's gobs of carbon all over the inside of the case from the brushes, rinse it all out with brake cleaner and replace the brushes. You might be able to make the GFCI quit tripping if you just were to rinse it out; might be worth a shot.
I under estimated your abilities and I tend to error on the side of safety. I did not intend to be insulting or inconsiderate. Sorry ...
That said, I would not use (or sell) that drill with or without rubber gloves until it is properly repaired.
Remember - only 20 milliamp will stop a heart.
Likely it is a powder layer (carbon from the brushes) that sprayed from themselves to the case. Carbon resistor that gets lower and lower.
Likely a simple cleanup (inside) will do the trick.
Martin Martin Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH & Endowment Member NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
Ignoramus3408 wrote:
If the other guy doesn't live nearby, I live in Baltimore and I'd be glad to have it if you can't fi.
Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let me know if you have posted also.
I agree! I can't think of even one time when the smoke got out that the tool in question still worked.
Harold
I found just such a problem in a 1/2 horse motor I use for my tool bit grinder. It ran fine, but showed voltage from the housing to ground. Grounding the housing eliminated the problem, but when I dismantled the motor to replace bearings, I found the source a wire that had been crushed between two members. Insulation was intact, but there was a high resistance leak. Taped the crushed portion and the problem went away.
Harold
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