The automatic air bleeder in my hot water heat system leaks. I have to screw
the little cap down to stop the leak, but then I lose my air bleeder
function. WHere do I buy a new one? WHat is the thing called?
Its a saftey pressure release, dont block the blow off or operation or
it could BLOW. Did you try turning down the temp,
You only need the amount of hot water to take a shower without adding
cold. It will save you alot. Also its summer, your house and incomming
water are warmer .
The picture you showed is very similar to mine. I installed the air
scoop, as well as the auto-bleeder. But it seems like I installed my
Expansion tank in the other hole on the air scoop.
On the bottom of the air scoop is the expansion tank and the bleeder
is on the top. I'm not standing in front of it, but I think that's
the way it is. Works very good for me. I used to have one heck of a
time bleeding all the air out of my system, but with this setup, it's
done automatically...though it sometimes takes a week or two. My
pipes have never been quieter.
I'd replace the bleeder altogether, with one similar to what is
described here. They get full of mineral deposits pretty easy.
Are you referring to a small brass cylinder about 3-inches long and 1-inch
in diameter that has what appears to be a tire stem valve on top with a
screw-on cap? If so, if you go to the counter at a heating/plumbing supply
firm and ask for an "automatic bleed valve" they will undoubtedly know what
you want -- just describe it and tell them it is for a hot water rather than
a steam system they will know what it is. I always found that mine started
to leak eventually because of mineral buildup on the internals surfaces but
found that leaving the cap screwed down except when I heard bubbles in the
system was ok. When I suspected air in the system I'd just unscrew the cap
and let it vent and then screw it back down until the next time.
Maybe I wasn't clear in my original post so I've taken some pictures (One
reply did get it right though). Visit link http://users.rcn.com/jmagerl/ .
One picture is of the complete assembly, the other picture is of the cap and
porous rubber insert. It is my opinion that the rubber insert has gone bad.
My question is where do I get a new one? I was hoping someone could point me
to an internet source. Too make things worse, I have two of these in my
system (both leak) and the rubber washer in one is mounted backwards to the
other so I don't even know the correct way to insert it.
It looks like your bleed valves are slightly different than what I had but
probably operate on the same principle - a float that falls when there is
air present and floats in liquid to block the opening. My system had at
least five of them in various locations, mostly upstairs although there was
one down near the boiler. In any case, take a look at:
and see if anything looks familiar. You are going to need to know how big
the threaded nipple on the bottom is but beyond that you should be home
Something else is whacky. You shouldn't have to tighten the bleeder valves.
They have a little piece of cardboard in them that swells up when it gets
wet, closing the vent. Thus, they are automatic. But if you have been
tightening them, you might have permanently compressed the cardboard and
Or, maybe the pressure is too low in your system and the water level is too
low and the air is not being pushed out.
Nope. I just have to flush the air out every year. Its a combination of iron
and copper pipes. Original construction (1967) is iron but the new
construction (1987) is copper.
Right now I put a bucket under the air vent and released the little cap to
see if it will de air itself. It's been 2 days now and it still sounds
gurgly. Guess I have to go thru the flush routine again.
New vents are on the list to buy.
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