I have a bigger set of the HF diamond points . Don't overheat them or the
diamonds fall off . Otherwise I've had good success using them . The one
that came apart was sharpening a chain saw when that happened .
That pretty much says how low the quality of the HF bits are. A chainsaw
is not a very hard steel. But that just shows the overall quality of all
HF stuff, and is why I dont buy from them, or recommend them. Ive never
bought bits for a dremel tool, because I never found them tools real
useful for my needs. I got one years ago as a gift, used the bits that
came with it a few times, but I would not even know where to find it
now. However, I'd suggest the bits from dremel, or another company that
makes quality stuff. I've bought off-brand drill bits and they are just
a waste of money, as well as a thing to piss me off when I'm trying to
drill a hole. The same is true to jigsaw, sawsall, and other saw blades.
Not low quality steel, but they are not made from a super hard steel
You're right about paying someone, (sort of). I only have an electric
chain saw and electric pole chain saw. I gave up on gas powered ones,
because I dont use them enough and it seemed everytime I needed to use
one, the carb would have to be rebuilt, even though I would drain the
gas. If a large tree needs to be dealt with, I trade the wood to someone
to cut it down. I dont burn wood anyhow. As for my electric ones, I have
a friend who has an actual chain sharpening machine. I take him a 6-pack
and he sharpens my chain. It's a perfect job, which I could never do by
hand, and he can do it in 10 minutes. It used to take me hours to do it
by hand and it still never cut well. It was not worth my time doing it
by hand, in fact before I met this guy, I usually just touched it up a
few times with a file, then I just bought a new chain. They're not that
costly for the small electric saws.
My friend spent big money for that machine, but he uses it all the time.
For my occasional use, it would not be worth buying.
I like to do most of my own stuff, but cant see spending hours to
sharpen a chain, and still it's not right. Thats why machines are made
for jobs like that. Not only do they do a perfect job, but do it in
minutes, rather than hours.
Bigger as in more in the box . I think mine had something like 50 . I was
getting started sharpening my own chains , seemed like a quick way to touch
up the chain . It was , but my inexperience let the teeth get out of balance
side/side and the saw wandered in the cut and bound .
I have since learned how to sharpen a chain properly , and about every 3rd
touch-up I use the file guide to insure I keep the correct angles and edge
profile . I can turn a 40+ foot red oak that's 16" thru at the bottom into
20" chunks in about an hour - includes lopping limbs and cutting anything 4"
and over into stove lengths too .
I did not seem to get the hang of sharpning the chain saw with a file and
guide to do a very good job. I caught a HF electric sharpner on sale for
about $ 30 and it works fine for the few sharpenings I do every year.
Probably would want a beter quality if I did lots of chains.
With the blade flat on the ground (or parallel to it)?
If so, how do you keep fuel mixture and chain oil from
How do you keep the file from wandering too deep into the gullet?
I straddle the saw, bar pointing away from me, so it's not going
anywhere. Then, move the chain, by hand, until I can locate a
convenient reference (often, two left or two right cutters in
a row, instead of alternating; sometimes a different spacing
between adjacent cutters).
I *kiss* each left cutter, advance chain to next left cutter,
repeat until I've moved through the entire length of the chain.
Then, swap hands and do the right cutters.
Guide makes sure the file stays "high" on the cutter (but not
TOO high) from one to the next. Witness marks on the top side
of the guide help me hold it at the correct angle in relation to
I have another gauge that I use to check the height of the rakers
(and a flat file for those). But, they tend not to need to be
Run a finger gently over each tooth to verify they "catch" my
flesh, just a bit.
I keep a wrench (to loosen the bar), screwdriver (to adjust bar tension),
file and guide in my pocket when using saw. I don't want to let the
"inconvenience" of having to return home to fetch them deter me from
keeping the saw nice and sharp.
*Big* difference between a "really sharp" chain and one that you've let
go a wee bit too long. Usually pretty obvious while you're using the saw:
does *it* do the work? Or, do *you* have to PUSH it through the wood?
If I hear a neighbor using a saw, I'll usually wander over to see
how much "work" it is for them. As it only takes a few minutes
to touch up a chain, I'll often offer to do so -- and watch their
eyes light up, afterwards, at how much easier the saw is to use.
[Of course, *they* never seem to grasp the idea that THEY should
be doing this instead of forcing a dull saw to do the work...]
Just put the file into the round grove. I realize it's the upper part
that needs the sharp edge so I press a little upward.
Yes, I get the same "cuts better" effect from sharpening.
After Sandy I had a crew come in with one guy that seemed to really
know what he was doing. He sharpened his saw the same way. Just
a round file.
Some seem to have good skills at doing things free hand, but I don't seem to
be able to. When I paint I have to tape where I don't want it to go and
cover every thing that I don't want painted. The actual paint job looks
good, but I make a big mess on the drop cloths. Same with the chain saw. I
put mine in a vise in the shop and use file and guide and it just barley
cuts beter than before I sharpen it. The HF sharpner works very well for me
as after I adjust it, it is just mechanical work and no skill.
On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 10:10:13 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
I can paint freehand better than I can using tape, because tape often
bleeds, or pulls off paint when I remove the tape. I just use a quality
But I cant sharpen a chain saw worth shit, freehand or even with a
guide. I also cant sharpen drill bits, and I've read articles and did
everything I was supposed to.... Some things are best left to the pros,
and their top of the line machines.
I received a Drill Doctor machine for Christmas a few years ago. Works well
on the bits that I never learned to sharpen. No more than I use a drill I
probably would have been beter off if I just buy new drill bits any time I
needed a sharp one.
Even with the guide, I have an overwhelming "urge" to move the
file lower into the gullet. It is only the guide that prevents
me from doing so (I invariably have to examine the guide to see
why it won't let me put the file where *I* want it to go!)
Keeping it "on hand" (so there's no disincentive to using it) and
not getting carried away (trying to remove too much material)
seems to make it easier to keep the saw (chain) operating at its
I've a healthy respect for chainsaws; never want to find myself
"forcing it" -- to do ANYTHING! :>
This sharpner looks something similar to a small chop saw or miter saw with
an abrasive wheel. YOu place the chain in a guide and adjust the wheel to
where you want it to cut and how deep to cut. After that all you have to do
is just move the wheel down and up and advance the chain to the next
position. When all the teeth going one way are sharpened you move it to the
new position and sharpen the other teeth. This is done with the chain off
the saw so it does pay to have an extra chain with you if away from the
house. The saw cuts great after this as all the teeth are the same.
If I did much sharpening I would get one of the beter quality ones, but I
thought for less than $ 30 it would be worth a try no more sharpening than I
YOu do have to adjust the cutting wheel to where you want it to go. If you
do not pay attention on where to set it, you could probably cut all the way
through the chain. It comes down with the wheel at an angle, maybe around
30 deg off vertical, what ever the chain needs. That is why I tried to
compair it to an electric miter saw, one that is made to cut molding for a
room. Then the chain is in a movable bracket that you can turn left and
right to match the angle of the cut much as a file would need to be held to
match the angle of the cutting part of the chain.
You do need to check the settings every time you put another chain on to
If you need to cut down the rakes or what ever they are called, you can do
As it does use electricity and requires removing the chain from the saw you
would want to carry an extra chain or two with you. Probably quicker to
change the chain than to sharpen one in the woods unless you really know
what you are doing with the files.
They are usually around $ 40 but often with the coupon from HF you can find
them on sale for just under $ 30. There are some comercial duty ones from
other companies that start around $ 100 to $ 150. If sharpening lots of
chains you would want one of the beter ones, but as I only sharpen a few a
year if it does 20 chains for me, it is worth it. I can toss it and buy
another. That would get me to an age old enough I should not be fooling with
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