Doorbells - Help Please

Jan 17, 2016 53 Replies

To be clear: briefly pushing the button (and releasing) will cause the chimes to play their complete melody (?)

While not 100% conclusive, this suggests that the diode is intact and is allowing "half" the electricity to continue to flow even after the button is released.

You could *remove* the button and just try tapping the wires together (holding them by their insulation -- despite it's relatively low voltage) to see if the doorbell plays its entire tune -- or, if it just gets started and then quits (because there is no diode present with the button removed!)

Do you still have any of the old (toasted) buttons? Are they just "generic" buttons -- nothing ornate/fancy?

Is your posted email valid?

Sorry on the confusion with my name. I am using my niece's computer.

gives you a general idea as to size, shape, etc.

Yes, though I think that would be a Code violation. More likely that it is attached to the *outside* of the "fuse box" (so it looks like a *wart* growing out of the box -- much like the above photo).

The take-away from this post is that you almost certainly have the CORRECT transformer. If it worked originally, it's HIGHLY unlikely that it has failed in a way that could allow the bell unit to continue to operate but the lighted buttons to "burn out" prematurely.

It's possible the original button was *specially* chosen for this application (though that seems improbable) which would necessitate replacement with another purchased from the original doorbell manufacturer.

Do you truly want to understand the reason behind the problem? Or, just get a solution that you can forget about, hereafter?

Inside the button is not unusual. Tony may live in Iceland where they don't do it that way.

It all makes sense now. The decreasing time between broken buttons is a sign the world is ending. As it is written, "The world will end with buttons and bows."** Are you getting any broken bows? That would confirm it.

***from "Paleface", but made famous by Dinah Shore, one of the most famous End of the World prophets.

It usually comes with the kit, but very often is not installed - It looks like quite a few come without the transformer from what I see on the web.

Does the chime still sound ok when the light is burned out and someone push es the doorbell button, and you just want to get the light to work ok again ? If so, you can get replacement bulbs in various voltage and keep the doo rbell unit itself for whichever one has the style you like.

But, to replace the bulb, we need to know the voltage output of the transfo rmer that powers the doorbell unit and the chime unit itself. The electric ian should be able to easily measure the voltage, or perhaps you have a han dy neighbor. Voltmeters are essentially free at Harbor Freight, using one of their freebee coupons. The transformer is essentially the volume of a p ack of cigarettes, though more squarish.

The earlier suggestion to contact the manufacturer seems to be a valid path forward. If the "bulb" in the switch is a special device they may assist you in locating one or at least tell you what to search for to replace the original. They may even have an upgraded compatible button assembly.

Put in a 24 volt bulb - the highest voltage generally used - it will still glow at 16.

Now that you know what it looks like, from the picture published here, have you found it? It might be on the outside of the fusebox or it might be on a 2x6 in the basement ceiling, holding up the first floor

I don't think you want to take the cover off the fusebox. Even I wouldn't do it just to learn the voltage.

It would be easier to measure the voltage between the two wires at the button, when one wire is disconnected. Or at the bell when someone is pressing the button.

i had a frustrating time with my doorbell also

i replaced mine with a Wireless from Sado/starpoint [amazon]

the thing i like is, you can get 2 chime units, and if one goes out, you have a spare [in my case, i use one upstairs]

if i had it to do over again, they have a 2+2 package, and you get 2 of each [buttons & chimes] so you have a spare of each, for backup

marc

Because I play the radio or tv, I can't hear the original chime unless I'm in the kitchen. So I put a clapper, and then later replaced it with a chime, in the basement. And I took a wireless doorbell, that I paid about 6 dollars for at Sunset House, rewired the button so it used the power of the doorbell transformer, and so the wireless button was always pressed but the button had no power unless someone pressed the button at the front door. And the receiver/chime went upstairs. And it worked well for several years. Actually I bought two, and the first one worked well for my mother for about 10 years and then for me for 5 until it burned up. 15 years total. The second one only lasted a year! I have another new much more expensive one but the voltage for the button is not as easy to derive from my xformer.

Had similar problem as you first reported - light burned out about ever cou ple months. This happened after Ireplaced doorbell with an electronic chim e. Had to replace the 10V transformer with a 16V transformer and a diode o n the doorbell button to get it, the chime, to work. After that is when the light started burning out regularly. I replaced the bulb in the button wi th a PBL2 which the manufacturer said was specifically for a 16V system - l ight still burned out. I finally resolved my problem by replacing the bulb in the button with a 2185 bulb rated at 28V. No problems since then.

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