Speaking of doorbells, I was just watching a documentary about the
Beverly Hillbilllies, and it showed Jethro in the front hall and the
music was coming out of the walls somehow, and Jethro said some day he
was going to tear out the walls to find out where it was coming from.
But, he said, after the music plays, someone always comes to the front
door, and sure enough after a while someone knocked.
She was head of the Historical Association and she saw Granny's loom
out front so she wanted to talk to her. Jed said that she was in the
kitchen making butter. "By hand? the woman asked. 'Oh, no. She uses
So they went in to the kitchen and the woman was so pleased, she took
a camera out of her purse and asked if she could take pictures. "What
kind of pictures," Jed asked. "Still pictures." "Get your gun,
Pearl. She's a revenuer," Granny yelled.
But things calmed down and Jed got a trunk with more old things in
it, and he said to her, "When you look in this trunk, you'll be
happier than a cow in RED CLOVER". And she was.
I'm so glad the historical footage of their life in Beverly Hills
On Saturday, January 16, 2016 at 8:27:13 PM UTC-8, Kate wrote:
OK, I just thought of something. When the electrician installed my new wir
ed doorbell unit, I recall he said something about putting the transformer
in my fuse box. I just went out to look, and I don't know what a transform
er looks like, but could there be a chance that he took the cover off of my
fuse box, and installed it behind the cover? I am thinking that the trans
former is small enough to be placed there.
Yes, though I think that would be a Code violation. More likely
that it is attached to the *outside* of the "fuse box" (so it looks
like a *wart* growing out of the box -- much like the above photo).
The take-away from this post is that you almost certainly have the
CORRECT transformer. If it worked originally, it's HIGHLY unlikely
that it has failed in a way that could allow the bell unit to continue
to operate but the lighted buttons to "burn out" prematurely.
It's possible the original button was *specially* chosen for this
application (though that seems improbable) which would necessitate
replacement with another purchased from the original doorbell
Do you truly want to understand the reason behind the problem? Or, just
get a solution that you can forget about, hereafter?
Now that you know what it looks like, from the picture published here,
have you found it? It might be on the outside of the fusebox or it
might be on a 2x6 in the basement ceiling, holding up the first floor
I don't think you want to take the cover off the fusebox. Even I
wouldn't do it just to learn the voltage.
It would be easier to measure the voltage between the two wires at the
button, when one wire is disconnected. Or at the bell when someone
is pressing the button.
i had a frustrating time with my doorbell also
i replaced mine with a Wireless from Sado/starpoint [amazon]
the thing i like is, you can get 2 chime units, and
if one goes out, you have a spare [in my case, i use one upstairs]
if i had it to do over again,
they have a 2+2 package, and you get 2 of each [buttons & chimes]
so you have a spare of each, for backup
On Tue, 19 Jan 2016 13:44:06 -0800 (PST), firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Because I play the radio or tv, I can't hear the original chime unless
I'm in the kitchen. So I put a clapper, and then later replaced it
with a chime, in the basement. And I took a wireless doorbell, that
I paid about 6 dollars for at Sunset House, rewired the button so it
used the power of the doorbell transformer, and so the wireless button
was always pressed but the button had no power unless someone pressed
the button at the front door. And the receiver/chime went upstairs.
And it worked well for several years. Actually I bought two, and the
first one worked well for my mother for about 10 years and then for me
for 5 until it burned up. 15 years total. The second one only
lasted a year! I have another new much more expensive one but the
voltage for the button is not as easy to derive from my xformer.
Does the chime still sound ok when the light is burned out and someone push
es the doorbell button, and you just want to get the light to work ok again
? If so, you can get replacement bulbs in various voltage and keep the doo
rbell unit itself for whichever one has the style you like.
But, to replace the bulb, we need to know the voltage output of the transfo
rmer that powers the doorbell unit and the chime unit itself. The electric
ian should be able to easily measure the voltage, or perhaps you have a han
dy neighbor. Voltmeters are essentially free at Harbor Freight, using one
of their freebee coupons. The transformer is essentially the volume of a p
ack of cigarettes, though more squarish.
On Saturday, January 16, 2016 at 11:27:13 PM UTC-5, Kate wrote:
Had similar problem as you first reported - light burned out about ever cou
ple months. This happened after Ireplaced doorbell with an electronic chim
e. Had to replace the 10V transformer with a 16V transformer and a diode o
n the doorbell button to get it, the chime, to work. After that is when the
light started burning out regularly. I replaced the bulb in the button wi
th a PBL2 which the manufacturer said was specifically for a 16V system - l
ight still burned out. I finally resolved my problem by replacing the bulb
in the button with a 2185 bulb rated at 28V. No problems since then.
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