Does This Electrical Device Bother Anyone Besides Me?

I've heard folks complain about back-stab electrical device failures- but I've never had one. And I don't really understand why some consider them failure-prone.

You stick the wire in, you install the switch/receptacle, etc., in the box, and then never touch it again.

I can see a potential problem if you pull the wire out and then stick it back in, maybe even more than once. But stick it and leave it alone-- what's to fail?

This guy opens one up for a closer look :

I think that since the current involved is just for an LED or USB, that it's incapable of generating any significant heat, unless the electronics shorts out and even that is probably only going to generate a little arc that probably can't do anything. But is this thing UL listed? It doesn't say. And I would never think of coming up with something like this because I would think there would be problems getting it listed. Is it legal to sell without UL? Like code requires some kind of secure connection for just about anything.

This seems better and worse than the backstab idea. Better because very little current is involved, versus 15/20A. Worse because those fingers would have less tension, maybe more prone to oxidation, already oxidized because the receptacle is 30 years old, etc.

Any discussion related to back-stab devices should always start with ensuring that we are talking about the spring-tab type, not the newer clamp type where the wire stills gets "stabbed" into the back of the device but then gets clamped down by tightening the clamping plate with a screw. There is often confusion between those two types.

Regarding the spring-tab type, 2 issues come quickly to mind:

2 - The cyclic heating and cooling of the connection based on the load can cause the connection to loosen. This may never happen with a basic lamp or small kitchen appliance, but more likely to happen with space heaters, etc.

In addition, most back-stab devices are at the low end of the quality scale to begin with, meaning that, in general, they are more prone to failure even if the spring-tab connection isn't the problem.

Then there's this, which compares older style back-stabs to newer style back-stabs. I have not verified the comments, mainly because I simply do not use back stab devices. I've seen enough failures, both intermittent connections and burnt receptacles, that I see no reason to take a chance. I've got a screw driver in my hand anyway, so why not use it to ensure a solid connection around a screw or behind a clamp plate?

From:

Lee Valley had some similar and I have a couple for two years now. Work perfectly, easy to install. Only difference, at the time they were only $7 on a special buy.

They pull maybe 1/100 amp when on so little heat generated.

That's a great comparison between 3 similar devices, but no discussion of my primary "concern": The contact points.

Call me overly cautious, but if it's electrical, I think it should be securely connected. Yes, it's a low amperage draw, but I still don't like the connection method.

According to comments I found on the SnapPower web site, this product is not UL approved. Rather, it is claimed to be ETL certified under certain UL code citations. Interesting, because all other SnapPower products are apparently UL approved. The LED draws so little current that I'm surprised that no one has been able to come up with a design for this type of item that draws the needed power via induction, similar to "cordless charging" for certain types of cell phones and other modern electronics.

Lower voltage, but a couple of billion flashlights work the same way.

It's not great, and it's a nifty idea, but $50 a piece is too much** I'd rather just use those spherical 7watt bulbs. I'm sure I still have one or two. Or stumble around in the dark. **Oh, it's a 2-pack. I only need one, if that.

The amazon ad says nothing about USB port.

Edited for clarity:

Call me overly cautious, but if it's 120VAC, I think it should be securely connected.

But I did.

"SnapPower sells receptacle covers that transfer power from the receptacle's screws to a nightlight, a USB charge port, etc."

Other brands are sold at Lowes and Home Depot in Canada 6 for $ 60. $ 13. each Canuck-Bucks but availability is sketchy. As usual - Amazon pricing is all-over-the-map. John T.

MM must be really nervous about those ! :-) Mine is 1350 watts and full of water too ! John T.

On Tuesday, April 19, 2022 at 2:47:42 PM UTC-4, some gutless f****it desperately cowering behind Rod Speed spewed the s*it that always pours from the back of it.

On Tuesday, April 19, 2022 at 2:56:06 PM UTC-4, some gutless f****it desperately cowering behind Rod Speed spewed the s*it that always pours from the back of it.

Seriously? Stooping to agreeing with that f****it?

It's a totally irrelevant comment.

There is no connection between the carafe and the source of the electricity.

That's how my kitchen kettle works - with only the vagaries of gravity to assure the integrity of the contacts .. :-) John T.

On Tuesday, April 19, 2022 at 6:43:02 PM UTC-4, some gutless f****it desperately cowering behind Rod Speed spewed the s*it that always pours from the back of it.

I bought some of those "night light" outlet covers - and they are S**TE!!!!