No question that wired can be compromised too. But installing a tap in a wired line is IMO a big step beyond connecting to a wireless LAN. If you put up a wireless LAN with no security enabled, it can be accessed by anyone within the wireless range. Like the kid in the apartment next door. For that kid to install a tap would not only require a lot more effort, but I think in most hackers minds, actually attaching something to someone's network is something they would not do for a variety of reasons. Being a physical thing, if found, there's direct evidence of tapping, which everyone knows is a crime and more likely to get police attention. Also, while it's not true, folks have a sense that anything they can connect to wirelessly is open territory.
Why do you have to add another cable connection between the wireless router in the office and the game room? In your house wiring plan above you clearly stated that you were installing that wiring. Otherwise what you've layed out makes sense to me.
Yes!
Now we're back to confusion land again. The line isn't dead if you're using it to connect from a port on the wireless router to an X box in the game room.
24 gauge wire has a resistance of 2.6 ohms. If the eqpt at the far end is pulling 1 amp, you'd have a voltage drop of 2.6 volts, meaning your 15 volt source delivers 12.4 volts, which should still be OK. If it's powered from a typical wallwart power supply, I doubt it's anywhere near
1 amp so you should be fine. The label will tell you what the actual rating is
That's one thing you don't want to do!
Check the power supply and it's probably rated at a couple hundered milliamps at most and you have no problem to worry about.
Most of the antennas out there that are installed on a metal pole in the ground probably rely on the above. If the pole goes
4 ft into reasonable soil that's probably good enough. If you want really sound protection then a real ground rod driven into the earth and connected to the mast would be additional safety. The one thing you don't want is a metal mast on say a roof that is not earthed at all.
Here's one example:
formatting link
Google is your friend.
Also, looks like you may have found a reason to put a connection in the line where it enters the house.
Yep. A simple ferrite xformer between phases solves that problem.
It has nothing to do with the breaker box. As long as they are fed by the same transformer on the pole, it works.
Another method is the relatively new Z-wave 900Mhz devices. Whatever works, the idea is to avoid installing new wiring with the home alarm and monitor system. For example, this DIY store offers 3 types of alarm systems; wired, wireless, and hybrid.
A loaf of bread should be eaten one slice at a time. Trying to swallow the whole loaf in one gulp doesn't work.
That's generally a good idea to:
Avoid being unable to access the DSL modem diagnostics if the DHCP server in the router assigns the same IP to some computah.
Being able to glue two networks together through a VPN. If they were both on the same Class C network (192.168.pick-a-number.xxx), then there's a chance of IP address duplication.
Ummm... 2 wire doesn't make any DSL modems. They make combination DSL modem/routers.
My guess(tm) is that would be a 2701HG-B. There's a fair chance you have one with a marginal power supply. See:
It also doesn't have any way to save the setup, not remote admin, and some features disabled by AT&T.
ISP's sell what they can support.
I've seen all kinds of bizarre failures that I originally attributed to the 2wire modem/router. I eventually discovered it was the power supply.
You don't seem to have much luck buying hardware. I can sympathize, but I suspect your search for the ultimate reliable router is an exercise in futility. I haven't seen one yet that I can't kill with various activities. For a while, opening too many streams would kill off those not designed for BitTorrent. Others will blow up with too much outgoing bandwidth for file sharing. Still other would die on wireless as standards evolved and were debugged. All I can suggest is that you keep is simple. Avoid features that you'll never use. Also buy from a vendor that updates the firmware for their products that they no longer sell. That eliminates 2wire, Belkin, and possibly DLink.
From your description, they're simply placing the LAN IP in the DMZ, to use common Linksys parlance. No surprise, and no big deal. It's good to see that they do that by default, rather than making the customer jump through port forwarding hoops.
Long before you have a problem with forwarding ports to multiple computers, you have a much bigger problem: there's only one IP address available on the LAN side of the modem, right? So multiple computers don't work because only one of them can acquire an IP address, not because of any port forwarding limitations. As you said, attaching a router as the first device allows multiple computers to then be attached, and port forwarding is then managed within that router. The limitation remains that a given port can only be forwarded to one computer at a time, of course, but at least it's no longer all or nothing.
I wasn't able to parse that paragraph. How is 192.168.1.1 traffic finding its way to the WAN side of the modem? How did it get there? It didn't come from the Internet, since it's not routable, and it didn't come from the direction of the LAN, since there's a device (the router) in that direction that has that address, so where did it come from, the ISP?
Further, if you plug 192.168.1.1 into a web browser and you have a device on your LAN with that address, you'll access that device, (even if that device is a router). If the router is forwarding traffic addressed to itself to its WAN interface, well, it's broken. Replace the router.
Ok, this part relates to a discussion we had recently. Thanks.
Thanks for the warning, but it didn't turn out to be very messy at all. I appreciate the details.
If you put the POE adapter in the garage, you can have wired Ethernet in the garage without running a second cable, although it would require a switch to do so.
So the choices for wired Ethernet in the garage are:
POE adapter & switch in garage, single cable to the office/router
POE adapter anywhere, two cables between garage and office
Since you have a bunch of cable, the choice is probably #2...
Nope. Look again. The DMZ is usually defined by the router and is only concerned with incoming traffic, not outgoing. In this case, the redirection is happening in the DSL modem, not the router. The router duitifully passes traffic destined to the modem out the WAN port. The DSL modem traps outgoing traffic destined to its management IP address, and redirects it to the internal web server, and not out to the internet. That's quite different from the (misnamed) DMZ feature found in many routers. What makes it a big deal is that it probably breaks a few RFC's, is totally undocumented, and a rather good idea.
Ok, I looked again, and Google says the Speedstream 4200 is a modem/router combo, so I respectfully disagree with your assessment that the modem is somehow placing its LAN-connected device in the misnamed DMZ. Instead, it's the router portion of the 4200 that's doing that. That makes sense, though, since routers routinely do that while modems do not.
Yes, and in this case we're concerned with incoming traffic.
Nope.
You've mixed a few types of apples with some oranges. I can tell you were in a hurry. I hope you'll revisit this when you get a chance.
The 4200 has both USB and ethernet ports, while the 4100 has only the ethernet port.
I'm not sure what you found with Google, but unless they consider the single IP address NAT in the 4100/4200 to be a router of some sorts, I would consider it to be just a modem. (Actually a DSL bridge but that's hair splitting).
I humbly beg to differ. When I set the 4100/4200 into bridge mode, thus disabling the NAT, router, or whatever, it still redirects the management port to the internal web server. Therefore, it's not the NAT, router, or whatever that's doing the redirection, it's the DSL modem/bridge itself.
Note that some mutations of the 4100/4200 seem to screwup doing the redirection. I have a small pile of about 10 4100 DSL modems. Some work, others don't. Actually of the one's that don't work, most of them will recognize the traffic, redirect it to something that tries to deliver a web page, and then hang partly through painting the page. It seems to vary randomly with settings and version. My guess(tm) is that it's an unfinished feature. The redirection works just fine in later models, such as the Motorola 2210-02 DSL modem and every current cable modem that I've tested.
Nope. Outgoing. I'm talking about pointing the users web browser, connected through any router on a LAN port, and getting to the management interface on the DSL modem. It's kinda handy. From the internet (incoming side), I can fire up remote control software such as Teamviewer, connect to the users desktop computah, fire up a web browser, and point it to the DSL or cable modem interface in order to extract signal level and error rate data.
Yep. Try it and see for thyself. However, don't use a 4100/4200. Use a cable modem or later DSL modem.
I'm always in a rush. I've got 4 machines running Windoze updates that are taking forever. Were it not for the slow MS updates, I would never have time to post to usenet.
I could see a network with QOS priority making sense. I guess the "quality" feed is sent to a switch from the router, and then all the VOIP goes on that switch.
I've got their stuff for free or maybe a few bucks, but I'd have a hard time suggesting anyone consider Airlink 101 for anything serious. I did set up two of their routers for other people. Documentation is slim, but thus far no failures, so I guess I could recommend Airlink 101 over Netgear, but I'd sooner take Dlink over Airlink 101 any day, simply due to better documentation and easier to use firmware. I've haven't had any dlink failures, if a sample of 5 means anything.
I do have a 2701HG, but not on AT&T. I managed to get it to run on what is now Megapath. They made a modem as well, based on a sample of one I saw at a house in Vegas. You can't buy a 2wire in a store as far as I know. They only sell to ISPs. I've heard about the power supplies being a problem, but thus far, no problem in 3 years, and the unit was used. I grabbed another at the flea market should it croak.
Sell what they support. Well sort of. My isp have been bought once and merged twice. I have a decent collection of crappy DSL modems, only being a Zyxel which is supposed to be good. I have an old modem from Telocity (whatever that Cupertino company was called) that never locked up, but I couldn't figure out how to hook it up to Covad when Telocity went TU.
Note that Linksys will not update my router firmware. There is a GPL issue, which was discussed elsewhere on this newsgroup. Not only will they not update the firmware, they won't even put it on the net for download. I can certify Linksys as a company that won't upgrade at least one model of router, namely my WRT330N. [The New Egg reviews are not very good. I got it when it came out, so there wasn't information out there.]
I guess next time I will spring for a Cisco branded router. I assume they don't leave their small business customers out to sea.
Yeah, but I brought this up because the modem kind of looks like a one port router and you need to be aware of it's address so there are no conflicts when you attached your router. [I think Jeff cringes when I say one port router, but I don't know what else to call it.]
Maybe the idea is if you just had a switch after the modem rather than a wifi router, you would need some management features in the modem. In my case, I DMZ the modem to the router, and then do all management from the router.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.