DIY Dehumidifier

I realize that I am not actually talking about a dehumidifier.

My house suffers from too much humidity. The wood floors my DH installed (his trade) are beginning to buckle. So the situation has now become somewhat critical.

As I understand it I should build able to build basically an exhaust fan that is controlled by humidity.

But I have no clue exactly how to go about it. I intend initially to fit it into a window (similar to the way a window air conditioner is installed in a window). I don't know where to obtain the fan (get a bathroom exhaust fan and rip the guts out?) and I definitely don't know where to get the humidity control.

Any help?

Take care, Melody

Reply to
songofruth
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Melody,

The controller you want is called a humidistat. You can buy it at most Heat and AC stores but these stores may not sell retail. I'm not sure that your plan will work however. First, why do you think that humidity is causing problems? Have you measured the humidity? A cheap hygometer can be bought at Radio Shack for about $30. I would think that an average humidity above 70% would be needed to cause problems and you should be seeing mold and mildew as well. Second, Your plan is the replace the air in your house with air from outside so measure the humidity outside. Third, figure out where the source of the humidity is and try and fix the problem. Finally, if all else fails go with your fan, though AC or a dehumidifier would be much better. You'll need a whole house fan such as a large attic fan wired to the humidistat rather than a bathroom vent fan. All in all I think that one fan would be fairly expensive and also noisy.

Good luck, Dave M.

Reply to
David Martel

Sure, if it's less humid outdoors, in the absolute sense, ie if wo < wi, ie ln(Ro/Ri) < 9621(1/(460+To)-1/(460+Ti)). For example, if it's 70 F with

80% RH indoors and 80 F outdoors, ventilate when Ro < 0.8e^-0.336 = 0.57, ie the outdoor RH is less than 57%. This could use 100X less energy than a dehumidifier with a compressor. For efficient house heating and cooling, you'd want to ventilate at night in summertime and during the day in wintertime, every few days, when outdoor air happens to be dry.

You might put Lasko's 2155A reversible window fan (2470 cfm, 90 W, $53 from Ace hardware stores) in a partition wall that divides the house into two "airtight" spaces and run it whenever the house RH exceeds 50%, along with the calc above, and reverse from time to time to turn all the exterior house wall cracks and crevices into efficient bidirectional heat exchangers. You can do this automatically with a repeat cycle timer like Grainger's $83.90 2A179 (with its $4.26 5X582 socket), with adjustable off and cycle times from 1.2 seconds to 300 hours.

Herbach and Rademan (800) 848-8001

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sell a nice $4.95 Navy surplus humidistat, their item number TM89HVC5203, with a

20-80% range, a 3-6% differential, and a 7.5A 125V switch that can be wired to open or close on humidity rise.

We may see a wireless home automation controller that can do all this and more automatically at the U Mass DOE Decathlon contest house on the Washington DC Mall in October :-)

Nick

Reply to
nicksanspam

Melody,

It depends on where you are. If the air outside has a higher absolute humidity than the air inside, the fan will make it worse. To determine that you need a sling psychrometer and a psychrometric chart. In the humid south, what you are suggesting would be a very bad idea, because the air you blow out creates a vacuum inside the house. Then humid outside air is sucked in to the house to replace the missing air and the humidity goes up!

Stretch

Reply to
stretch

I think you are doing this backwards. Don't think getting the humidity out, think keep it out. Where is the moisture coming from? If it is the humid air outside, you won't fix it with a fan.

Reply to
Joseph Meehan

I think I've seen line voltage dehumidistats from Graingers, or Johnstone.

If you find a dehum on the curb, you might be able to scavenge the dehumidistat off of it. I used to have a couple I'd pulled off old equipment.

Bathroom fan is good, or perhaps a window fan from Walmart.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Melody,

Are you certain you want to build and install this? Stating that you don't know what a humidistat is, how to obtain one or how to obtain a basic exhaust fan gives me the impression that you might be better off purchasing what you need and/or considering a different approach.

The exhaust fan approach works well only when the outdoor humidity is acceptable. Even then, you are exhausting indoor air which you may have paid to heat or cool. Whenever your exhaust system is running, you need to keep a window cracked open somewhere to relieve negative pressure in your house. Otherwise, you can greatly increase the radon levels in your home since the negative pressure will draw radon from the basement floor (this is especially bad if you have a sump pump or you have cracks in the basement floor or the basement walls.)

If your windows are open, then your device will give you the same inside humidity as the ambient (outdoor) air, which may not be desirable. If you are running AC, then you are getting the air dehumidified automatically by the AC and you probably don't need your device. If you are running the furnace, then you can also run a $100-$150 dehumidifier, which has automatic controls. If needed, you can also use a dehumidifier in a problem room while running the AC, if needed. (Usually, low humidity levels are the problem in furnace season.)

You seem intent upon reinventing the wheel but you don't sound like an experienced inventor. Buy what you need and avoid a lot of hassle. I know how to acquire the materials and build what you want, but I'd never consider wasting my time when the $100 dehumidifier would work better and be a much easier solution. If the initial cost was a concern, then I'd look for a dehumidifer in a garage sale, or better yet I'd grab one of the many that sit on the curb on trash day. One half hour cleaning the coils will usually restore one to excellent operating condition.

A dehumidifer uses more electricity per hour than an exhaust fan, but the dehumidifer is going to run a lot less than a fan set to run automatically by a humidistat which isn't aware of the ambient humidity. When you consider the heated or air conditioned air which is wasted by the exhaust fan, then the dehumidifer is going to be much less expensive to operate.

FYI - my next door neighbors have a humistatically controlled basement exhaust system that was installed by a basement waterproofing company. It is extremely rare to walk by the house and not hear it running. They paid a small fortune to have it installed (about $1000 !) and they are continuing to pay dearly as it runs even when the furnace or the AC is running. That's like leaving a front and back window open when running the furnace or the AC.

Good luck, Gideon

=======

My house suffers from too much humidity. The wood floors my DH installed (his trade) are beginning to buckle. So the situation has now become somewhat critical.

As I understand it I should build able to build basically an exhaust fan that is controlled by humidity.

But I have no clue exactly how to go about it. I intend initially to fit it into a window (similar to the way a window air conditioner is installed in a window). I don't know where to obtain the fan (get a bathroom exhaust fan and rip the guts out?) and I definitely don't know where to get the humidity control.

Any help?

Take care, Melody

Reply to
Gideon

Not clear why you think a dehumidifier is not the best solution.

Reply to
Matt

You seem to believe the outside air to be less humid than the inside air.

Reply to
Matt

hear, hear

Reply to
Matt

Start going to a few garage sales and find a dehumidifier there. They are cheap enough and will solve the problem.

If it were winter and you had a humidity problem, i'd recommend looking for the source before searching for the temporary fix.

Reply to
BocesLib

DH is a hardwood flooring guy... been in the business for over 26 years. He says the problem is the humidity. That's why we have a hygrometer on every floor. :) This morning it was 51% on the top floor and 64% in the basement. It's never been that high. DH says that for hardwood floors it's best to keep the humidity around 35-40%, even lower if possible.

At one point DH was wanting a Humidex - which is just a big exhaust fan hooked up to a humidistat but for the wonderful price of like over $1K.

We have someone coming out tomorrow to see about a whole house dehumidifier hooked up to the central HVAC. I suspect it will be mega bucks and I'd be happier with something less expensive that would do the job.

The AC in the house is geothermal and doesn't seem to pull as much moisture out of the air as a regular system.

Take care, Melody

David Martel wrote:

Reply to
songofruth

Thank you very much, Gideon. My gut feeling was that such a system would be practical only a certain amount of time during the year. The humidity is due to the general tightness of the house and (imo) the geothermal HVAC system not pulling as much moisture out of the air as a standard system would have.

We would have to manually disable the system I'm talking about during times of high humidity outside. The radon is of course a concern as well. Although I suspect that air would be drawn in thru the bathroom exhaust fans... but then could add the whole new problem of drawing in septic air since I suspect that our bathroom exhaust fans are tied into the waste system vents.

My gut feeling is that dehumidifiers are the only practical way to go and we just live with the expense of running them (they can add around $10-$20 a month around here to the electricity bill). We have a small

40pint portable unit in the basement that keeps freezing up. I wish I knew what size we would really need to do the job properly.

Take care, Melody

Gide> A dehumidifer uses more electricity per hour than an exhaust

Reply to
songofruth

Mostly I've been keying in on the solution I suggested because my DH had a very strong preference for the Humidex unit. This would give him the same thing but at a (hopefully) greatly reduced out-of-pocket cost.

I do prefer a humidifier. Sure it adds bucks to the electricity bill but hey if that's the best solution, then that's the best solution. We have someone from our HVAC company coming out tomorrow with literature on ones that would connect to our HVAC system. (Since they service our machine one would think this could all be handled over the phone but noooo... they feel they must come out.) It looks like this solution too could run to near $1000.

I'm starting to think that I need to change my thread title (or start a new one) on how to figure out just how much dehumidifier I would need.

Take care, Melody

Reply to
songofruth

Or a calculator, or a home automation computer.

Nick

Reply to
nicksanspam

A properly controlled exhaust fan can dehumidify with 100X less energy than a dehumidifier.

Nick

Reply to
nicksanspam

Do you have any links to information about these units being 100X more efficient? That would be interesting reading for me! Thanks, Rich

Reply to
Rich

Nick. a calculator or computer will not measure wet bulb or relative humidity, but once the data is collected could convert it with the proper software. Paul Milligan has software to do that. But most people need someone with a strong HVAC background to determine what they need. Even most a/c contractors don't use psychrometrics enough to figure it out.

Stretch

Reply to
stretch

A properly controlled exhaust fan can dehumidify with 100X less energy than a dehumidifier.

Nick

Nick, that depends on the outside ambient. If it is very humid outside, running a fan will make it worse. What you say may be true in Massachusetts, but here in South Carolina, a residential exhaust fan does more harm than good about 8-9 months per year.

Stretch

Reply to
stretch

Melody,

If you can tell us something about your location, the size and construction of your house, We might be able to give better advice.

Stretch

Reply to
stretch

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