Dishwasher hot water usage

Aug 07, 2008 33 Replies

In any case, the answer to the question always goes back to just follow the installation instructions for the specific model you have. Don't try to outthink guys who design them.

The hot water is most needed for the rinse cycles so it's not a problem by then. If you have large diameter pipes in the hot water supply then you'll notice it won't get hot and you might want to run the hot water at the sink first, but ... usually it's not an issue. Mine runs 3/4 to

1/2 about 4' from the washer, then up in the washer's hose; the wash cycle will blast you with heat if you open the door. I think any modern washer would handle the situation. I noticed the heater element works during the first fill, so that must be to make up for cold water on ours. It's a Maytag and does a really good job compared to our old GE. Get the "quiet kit" with it; really worth it! You hardly know it's working.

"TWayne" wrote in news:g7hp0p$onn$ snipped-for-privacy@aioe.org:

The problem here is that the hot water pipe from the house water heater seems to go under the slab foundation, and seems to be uninsulated, and the dishwasher is about 30 feet from the water heater. So even if I let the water get hot in the pipe first, it won't still be hot each time the dishwasher wants water from it.

On Thu 07 Aug 2008 11:34:14a, Anagram told us...

This may have already been said, as I have not read the entire thread.

There are 3 basic types of dishwasher technology when it comes to the temperature of water.

Basic low-end dishwashers don't heat the water at all. They depend entirely on the proper temperature of water coming from the source.

Some dishwashers have "heat assist" but still depend on using hot water as the source. The heat assist will help to bring to maintain the proper temperature. this category probably represents most mid-line models.

Higher-end dishwashers usually have a switchable option which will heat the water to the proper temperature. The downside of connecting it to the cold water line, however, is the length of time it takes to heat each batch of water used during a full cycle. Often there one or two pre-rinses, a wash cycle (sometimes two), and anywhere from two to four final rinse cycles. Using cold water as a source could cause the full cycle to run for hours.

Our dishwasher is one that has "heat assist". I always make sure that I run the water at the faucet until it is steaming hot before starting the dishwasher. It gives the best results.

HTH

Anagram wrote in news:MXUmk.10079 $ snipped-for-privacy@fe111.usenetserver.com:

Sorry, was not in database. As I mentioned, it is often tucked behind the kickplate. May be taped to backside of it.

THAT makes no sense at all. Gas is measured in therms, while electricity is measure in kilowatt hours. Just because your gas bill and electric bill might be around the same amount has nothing to do with the basic cost of gas and electricity.

Electricity is nearly always a more expensive way to heat anything compared to gas (or oil or propane)

JK

Actually, doing dishes by hand typically uses a lot more water (and hot water) than modern dishwashers so long as you run the dishwasher reasonably full.

I believe that some European dishwashers are made to hook up to cold water since in some areas they often have smaller hot water supplies.

Unless you live somewhere where you get cheap hydro-generated electricity.

I believe that some European dishwashers are made to hook up to cold

that because europeans often have tankless water heaters.

my old bosch had a fantastic water heater built in.

unfortunately the bocsch was the least reliable of any dishwaser I have ever had and dead last in reabilty by consumer reports.

now that isnt the worst its parts cost a fortune, all service is difficult, because of the design, and it breaks way too much,

thats why mine went to the trash.

I am going to insulate the hot water lines to improve performance of the whirlpool dishwasher. its just one year old and honestly a piece of scrap. heck even the silverware basket broke.

too bad its hard to find good products anymore:(

the chinese guys are good at producing low priced stuff, but quality isnt one of their concerns:(

Are the rates really that better? We pay a little over 11 cents a kilowatt hour where I am (Wisconsin), which is cheaper than many other places, but I would be curious if it is really that much less where hydro is prevalent.

JK

Big_Jake wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@m36g2000hse.googlegroups.com:

There are places where electricity rates are below 5 cents per KWH. Some of it comes from hydro and some from nuclear. Meanwhile, natural gas has been skyrocketing for the past few months.

In central VA, we pay a little less that 8 cents during the summer air condioning season and about 6 cents during the winter. Heat pump users can get "budget billing" with a fixed monthly charge.

Our power comes from a mix of coal fired plants and nukes.

There may be a few "peaking" plants that use oil or NG but there are also some coal fired plants that aren't owned by the same folks that distribute the power.

Some of this may change because (as happened in California) our local utility promised to keep rates down in exchange for permission to sell off its power plants. The "modern" pattern is for a particular company to own distribution systems in one area and power plants in another area and high voltage links in still other areas. Essentiallly, these three aspects of the costs to the consumer will be controlled locally by three different companies.

You can "look it up" but for year and years in most places "hydro" is used mosly for "peaking" rather than base load. Base load plants (coal and nuke) are often placed on the lakes created by "hydro" dams.

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Here in CT we are paying 18¢

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