I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times. This time I
think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft store stock
Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90 degrees. Borg
does not cut lengths.
I have the reg electric power tool assortment including lame old clunker
circular (), another old clunker jig, 10" table Craftsman junker & new
kick-ass Hitachi 12" compound miter saws as well as a router. Probably need
to get some specific bit(s) and/or blades.
Of course I spoke on the phone with an Orange Borg guy in kitchens. Sounded
pretty confident as to recommendations but then again rats are pretty
confidient on running a maze. Have no idea if Borg guy has actually run the
I'm sure I'll get several methods as a reply and may take a combo of them
for what I decide to do but lets hear it please.
The best approach is to turn the counter top upside down on saw
horses. Protect the contact points with a rag or similar. Draw
your cut line on the bottom of the top and the back of the
backsplash. Corners are selfdom square, so check and mark
accordingly. If you are very good with a circular saw, have at.
If not, bolt/screw/double stick tape a straightedge tot eh top to
run the saw against (be very careful about going through the
finish top). Make your cut, install.
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
90 degree cuts are best made with a circular saw equipped with a fine kerf,
high tooth count carbide blade.
Always cut from the backside. I usually draw the line and cut the back
splash first. Then cut from the splash to the post formed lip raising saw
slightly when getting to the lip. Very little chipping occurs with this
method and caulk hides what does.
Supporting both sides is important while making the cut.
Cutting from the backside makes sense. Just like cutting shelving. Blade
rotation at cut is up. Finished edge at cut is supported my material.
Severely reduces chipping "out" I guess you might call it. Then there's
the additional taping sometimes recommended.
A layer of heavy masking tape centered on the cut line on the finished
side is what my neighbor carpenter always recommends to reduce
chipping. Double check that you really want 90 degrees on the edge
that goes in the corner. us a decent sized square, and double-check
by checking the old countertop, assuming that it fit perfectly.
Is the material you're cutting flat? (No integral backsplash.)
If so rough cut with a circular saw. Then trim to the exact dimension
by placing and clamping a guide on the counter top and then passing your
router with a 1/4" or 1/2" router bit over the desired edge.
Thanks VERY much for that link. Just the couple of article pics gave a
lot of info.
I made the jig and cut the countertop per the info from this thread and
the article. I mean absolutely flawless. The laminate did not chip at
all. If the cut edge of the laminate wasn't sharp as a knife blade I
wouldn't have even had to abrade it.
Maybe I got lucky and the countertop deserves some credit. Borg
countertop at that. One end of one piece was to be against a wall
directly with no side splash. Of course wall is not straight. Especially
where drywall came to a corner bead. Scribed this with a compass and used
a jig saw cutting from the top yet. That edge would get caulk anyway.
Still, no chipping.
Used a new Irwin steel plywood blade with like 100+ teeth in a 25 year
old B&D 7 1/4 circ saw. Those bearing have been rattling for like 2 years
Once again, thanks.
Where are you archiving this? Why do you need to repost this to
archive it rather than just archive the original? For me, I'd rather
print to PDF and keep it on my hard drive but I'll assume you don't
G'ahead and croak then. I sure as hell don't understand it. I don't even
know how to ask an intelligent question about it, since to me, it seems
completely out in left field. I'm not lacking some little piece of the
puzzle, I can't even figure out what the puzzle is.
I don't "object," and I don't think most others do, either. I'm just
What I can't wrap my tiny brain around is this: He *must* have the
article stored on his computer, somewhere, in order to repost it. (I
know this for sure, because he stated that it was long gone from his
news server.) Therefore, it *is* already archived. Maybe it doesn't have
the name he wants, or it isn't in the format he wants, or it isn't in
the folder he wants, but why would that necessitate re-posting?
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