I have a shingle roof that has 3 areas of repair needed. A roofing contractor looked at it and told me this. His company only does new roofs and he said I didn't need a new roof, only repair.
He also said that it's one sheet in two of the places and 3 to 5 sheets in the other place. So it would be 7 sheets total repair.
My roof is pitched from 10 feet to 8 feet high in 12 feet of length.
I'm told it's got 3/8 particle board with shingles.
I'm trying to get an approximate cost per/sheet of repair. I'm told that's how it's priced.
The board right under the roof that is a 1/2 inch by 4 and runs around the entire house also needs repair in about 20 feet of length.
I've just put out a bid for the repair, and I'm trying to get an idea of what the cost might be for the entire repair. Just a ballpark idea so that I know what "window" of price to expect.
What kind of problem do you have? Usually when a roof needs repair, in reality the whole roof needs to be replaced. Also "repairing" part of a roof will almost always look like a repair and not blend in.
While you need some decking and fascia repairs, the only way to do the job right it so do the entire roof or it will look like crap when done. Sounds like you need a better contractor and better advice. If I was a roofer, I'd refuse to do a patch on something that needs 7 sheets unless I did a complete tear-off for proper inspection.
Also, I've never heard of particle board on a roof. OSB, plywood or solid wood is OK,
It should cost between $38 and $134,284.39 for the whole job, and that should include cleanup. I'm sorry that I have given you such a broad price range, but you have given a very vague description.
Call three reputable contractors in your area. Get bids. Pick one. Have it done right, and have it done all at once. All your tires are the same age. You can have them changed one at a time, or you can start with a new set. Which one would be the best?
Isn't OSB 'oriented strand board' ? In other words, large wood particles and resin matrix. So small wood particles (sawdust) and resin are MDF or something...very confusing.
sorry but extensive patching will just waste your money........
so what specificially is wrong? age of roof, missing shingles active leaks bad flashing, deck falling apart???
please tell us more so we can try to help.........
there are roofers who charge less.
like just rip off old roof toss debris on ground.
know a fellow on a budget, he laid tarps on ground collected all the debris, pilled them up to look like a compost pile, put them out one bag at a time, took over 2 years going out as regular trash. inconvenient but saved him over 600 bucks.......
sounds like you need to think out of the box the box isnt your friend.
i heard of people getting a roomate to help pay for critical home repairs.
I've not ever heard of roofing being priced, bid, or done by the sheet. By the square (100 square feet) is normal. You may need to replace several sheets of decking. I've never heard of particle board of any type used on a roof. OSB (oriented strand board) that is 7/16 thick is quite common.
You never said what size the house is, but 25 square would handle many small subdivision houses. 7 are hurt? That's a third to fourth of the roof, that is a bit beyond a patch.
When I had my roof replaced, I kept getting bids because every salesman said my roof had one layer on it and was between 30 and 34 squares. Not one of them walked the roof.
I took the first bid some someon who walked the roof, knew it was 26 squares, and it needed to be vented. Bids ranged from $4,800 to $11,000. The guy who knew what he was doing was the low bid - but I had figured it should cost around $5,500.
Merlin, sometimes you have to patch and it's ok as long as the one doing it does it right. The first fellow who only does 'new roofs' would be a bad pick for a patch job because he's just not familiar with that sort of work.
For your query on how much per panel, the prices will vary with area and mine are older data but it was (2001, Norfolk area) 70$ per panel for the wood and i believe 150$ each to remove old and install new. The thickness of the wood replacing, has to match the old that will be left on (NOT OPTIONAL).
Be prepared to need a few more panels than origional estimate because once they get the tiles off, they may find more. It's *much* cheaper to do it now if any are even slightly nominal.
I did not have the whole roof replaced because most of it was fine. I had about as many panels as you say redone, and all the roof tiles. You will need to have all the tiles done (at least, all the font at the same time, and all the back at the same time) or it will not look right. That 'look' may not matter to you much now but come resale time, it's critical. They need to age and weather down uniformly.
Get estimates and be sure they specify how much cost per panel including the wood and the labor. Check with local resources to make sure the company has been reliably in business doing roof work for at least 5 years, 10 is better. Make sure they fully insure their workers because if not, they can have one of them get hurt then the worker can sue YOU for letting them work uninsured (silly I know, but it happens and can cost you your home).
The cheapest bidder, is often cheapest because his work is cheapest. Now, I'll often go 'cheap' but the roof of your house isnt the right spot for that as it will cost you far more just a few years down the road to fix it.
Best thing is get at least 3 estimates in writing then see your local bank about a home improvement loan. They can often roll these in with your household payments to bring the monthly cost down to quite acceptable limits. That loan's interests BTW is tax deductable so say you pay 500$ in interest (wont be that much), your taxes will give you back about 100$ of it.
Grin, we used the one who 'cost the least' and was a bar buddy, but the reason why he cost the least was because we contracted several things with him at the same time. Siding, garage door, etc. Package deal.
I know some people who couldnt afford a new roof. so they picked the worst side and had 1/2 replaced the front. home looked good from street, street side was worse anyway
the back they gooed with roof tar, and some cheap mobile home roof coating. it looked bad but stopped most of the leaks.
2 or 3 years later they replaced the other side of the roof.
its something to consider when fiancially challenged.
Thats close to what we did but the back was done first, as it was in worse shape, then later the front (which was overall in fairly good shape except a few spots).
often the worst side is the one that gets the most sun... espically in sunny areas, like the desert south west.
when buying a new roof your better off to go to a white or light colored roof, shingles last longer summer roof temperatures lower. add ventilation too
Pay now, or pay more later. In a re-roof, most of the cost is labor and tippage fees for the ripoff material. A typical ranch house roof takes
3-4 days tops. Once the crew and materials are on site and set up, the time difference from doing half or doing all is not that great, and the roll-off costs just as much to have spotted. It does NOT cut the costs by half, and will cost more than a complete re-roof once the other half gets done in a year or three.
If you don't have the cash on hand, but have some equity, go see your bank about a home improvement line of credit. For something like a roof, that helps preserve the value of the security on the main loan, they will be happy to work with you. 7-8 k is NOTHING to them compared to a
100k+ mortgage.
Besides, life is too short to mess with this more than once per house.
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