I don't know what you call this part but our closet as two accordion style
doors that meet in the middle. One of the doors was getting stuck. I removed
it and found that the part shown in the picture below is some kind of guide
with a spring that is supposed to ride in the track above it. It is stuck
and won't move freely up and down. I tried spraying it WD-40 but that didn't
help. Is this part replaceable and if so, what is it called and how do you
remove the old one?
Thanks for your reply.
On bi-folding doors, there are two pieces at the top of the door. The
one in the pic is the pivot. Usually the post goes into a metal
bracket inside the track. The pivot is usally glued into the top of
the door. You might be able to remove it with a pair of pliers. All
of the hardware for bi-folding doors are usually replaceable. Just
check your local hardware store and tell them you're looking for bi-
folding door parts.
If Im looking at what I think Im looking at then that part is not supposed to move freely up and down but is supposed to move up and down when you turn a nut that is probably under that plastic ring which probably doesnt belong there.
The reason I know it's supposed to move up and down is because the pin on
the other, functional set of doors does move freely up and down. There's a
spring inside to push it up with some moderate force.
Thanks for your reply.
What you have in the picture is a bottom pivot that goes on the bottom; the top pivot is spring loaded and move up and down the bottom pivot is controlled by a nut. Someone may have placed a bottom pivot on the top. Remove it and place it on the bottom. It should come out when you pull on it; you may need to pry it out with a screwdriver.
If worse goes to worst you can drill it out. Before doing so, pick up your
new pivot and socket at any hardware place so you'll know what size hole
you'll need for the new pin and socket. Not likely you'll be able to
purchase just the one, they are usually bagged into a hardware set, not
You should be able to get the old one out, though. They are just a nylon
piece pushed into a hole in the wood. Tried prying under the cap with a
screwdriver? Is the cap big enough to get a purchase with vice grips? Try
sticking needle nose pliers into the hole, opening them and turning.
I bought a new one. I could not find an exact replacement. The pivot pin
itself was the same size but the part that anchors into the door was much
bigger so I drilled out the old one and hammered in the new one. The problem
now is that the top of the door is rubbing the top of the frame as it starts
to close which is why I removed the whole thing to begin with. If I move the
sliding link part a little toward the middle where the pivot pin is
inserted, then it doesn't rub. However, this makes the doors extend too far
to the center and then they hit the doors on the opposite side before they
are fully closed. I think somehow the frame has either swelled or something
is not square any more. Also, the bottom pin is adjustable but it's screwed
in as far as possible to give the maximum amount of clearance at the top.
Thanks for your reply.
The top pivot pin fits in a hole in a (usually) nylon slug within the track.
That slug (fixture) is moveable; it will be held in place by a small bolt or
bolts either at the edges of the fixture or in the central area. Loosen the
slug and slide it as needed to square up the door.
NOTE: it can take some fiddling because you need to be able to close the
door, move it and the slug, then open the door again so that you can tighten
the slug. The hard part is not moving the slug again when opening the door.
The trick is to loosen the slug just enough so that you need a fair amount
of force to move the door and it when adjusting.
In your particular case, try moving the *bottom* pin. The bracket it fits
in isn't infinitely adjustable like the top one but has some way of
adjusting the pivot position; usually, a serrated slot. Moving the bottom
pin closer to the wall will drop the outside corner of the top. If moving
the bottom pivot drops the top too much and it touches the other door,
adjust the top pivot again. As I said, it takes some fiddling.
It may be that the *OTHER* door needs to be adjusted. Your goal is to get
each door top parallel to the track and an even reveal in the center where
they met when closed. When that is done, the reveal between the doors and
the walls at the pivot end may be skewed, can't help it, the walls aren't
plumb and/or the track isn't level.
Adjust the evenness of the door tops by turning the bottom pivot up or down
as needed. Ideally, raise them to just below the track edge so that they
can't jump the track. The door bottoms may wind up at slightly different
heights, can't help it, the track and/or floor are not level.
Worst case, remove the doors and trim as needed. If the doors once fit the
space, that should not be needed.
Yesterday, after hours of shifting, adjusting, and pushing, I realized that
the bottom pin is exactly as you described. I kept thinking that the bottom
pin fit into the hole in the bottom plate. It soon became apparent (if you
call a few hours "soon") that this was a dead end. That's when I
repositioned the bottom pin into one of the serrated slots. Next, the
problem was that I could not just put the top pin into its respective hole
and slide the doors into the track. Even pushing the pin all the way down
didn't give it enough clearance. So I had to tilt the doors to the side
while pushing on the pin and then slowly line everything up. It took a few
tries to find the correct positioning of the bottom pin and if I ever have
to do this again, I will pay attention to where the bottom pin lives before
I remove the doors!
Thanks for everyone's help with this.
The whole thing should be removable from the wooden part of the door.
Usually, you pry it out with a screwdriver. Now by "whole thing" I mean the
pin that is stuck and the bushing into which is is supposed to move up and
down. The pin is NOT supposed to come out of the bushing section.
Once the part is removed, you may be able to free the pin. My first choice
would be to slather it with Liquid Wrench or (better) PB Blaster available
at the auto parts store.
If one of these penetrating oils won't loosen the pin, that the part to the
Big Box or hardware store and say "Gimme one like this."
That is true for the bottom pivot but not the top. The top pin is spring
loaded and does indeed move up & down freely. The plastic ring *does*
belong there because it is the top of the casing for the pin.
That's the top pivot pin. It is spring mounted. The pin, spring and
plastic collar are all one unit. It should be a press fit. Grab the plastic
collar with pliers, pull and twist. It should come right out. It can be
replaced at any hardware store.
It does not ride in the track. It sits in a pivot hole near the end of
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