Circuit Breaker Testing

Hair dryers can be used to load test a circuit breaker but that test will tell you nothing about the withstand rating. The withstand rating is determined by testing to destruction at the electrical testing laboratory. The resultant rating is on the breakers labeling.

The available fault current is determined by calculation. You need the rating and internal impedance of the transformer as well as the type size and length of the conductors between the transformer and the terminals of the device that you are concerned about.

"Calculations can be based on the source fault current at the transformer. Unless the user has fault data for the exact circuit of interest, a conservative estimate can be achieved by starting with the fault current at the site transformer. If desired, further refinement can be done by calculating current reductions due to conductor impedance. This method is most useful for smaller electrical facilities; use at larger facilities may provide overly conservative values.

The maximum fault current available at the transformer terminals is determined by the following formula, using data from the transformer nameplate, which can be supplied by the power company or a site engineer.

Secondary full load current = Single phase transformer kVA (Secondary kV) OR Secondary full load current = Three phase transformer kVA (Secondary kV)(?3) THEN

Secondary fault current = Secondary full load current x 100 Percent transformer impedance

This is the maximum fault current at the transformer, which will be reduced by conductor impedance. This reduction can be estimated using wire characteristics for various cross-sections and lengths."

The calculation of series ratings of breakers or fuses that are down stream from other Over Current Protective Devices is the kind of task that electrical engineers are paid to do.

-- Tom H

Reply to
HorneTD
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Here's a scary thing, I have the Federal Pacific breakers in my house (built in '72 so the vintage puts them suspect) and I'm having trouble with my computer's UPS beeping (low voltage?) if I turn on my laserjet (heater inside). If I turn on the iron on that circuit it beeps steady even if the computer isn't on. Since my breakers are this goofy shape I thought I'd look on the net and see what my options were and now I'm finding out people recommend replacing the whle panel. ouch

Reply to
Dave Barkley

According to Dave Barkley :

Such a problem is extremely unlikely to be the panel or the breakers themselves. If it was, they'd have burned out by now.

Irons and laserjets have pretty steep current requirements. If they're on the same circuit as the UPS, and your steady-state voltage is a little on the low side, an iron or laser (during periodic warm up cycles) can "draw down" the voltage on the circuit far enough for the UPS voltage alarm to go off.

Solution? Move the those things off the UPS circuit or vice-versa. Or, report it to your power company, and they can recheck the supply voltage.

There's a more dangerous possibility - do your lights flicker throughout the house when the iron goes on? Even more compelling, do any lights _brighten_?

Reply to
Chris Lewis

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