I bought a 14" Homelite and it didn't cut worth a damn, took it back
and traded it for a 14" Poulan. Made about 100 cuts with the Poulan
(same size trees as you are describing) and the oil pump went out. They
are made out of plastic and from what I've read this is a common
problem with this saw. I contacted Poulan and they covered the oil pump
under warranty, just had to take it to a local Poulan service center.
So IMO both of those saws are junk. I was gonna take the Poulan back to
Home Depot and trade it for something else but the only saws in that
price range, were the Homelite and my same Poulan. So I just got it
repaired. I've only used it once since being repaired so hopefully it
won't fail again, because then it will be out of my pocket.
BTW, Poulan told ME when the saws warranty was up by the serial number.
I don't really understand how it was still under warranty (only 8
months old according to them) because I had it for about 13 months. It
has a one yr warranty.
Sure are a lot of ppl here suggesting a bow saw.
Say what you will but why make extra work for yourself? Sure the
initial cut on trees that size is no big deal but then (in my case
anyway) they have to be cut into smaller pieces (24" and bundled) in
order for the county/city to haul them away.
How many ppl suggesting a hand saw still use a manual can-opener?
Actually, I do use a manual can opener. I have an collection of
"P-38's" from my "Uncle Sam" that I use. Of course it may have to do
with living in the mountains where electricity is often a "sometimes"
thing for weeks at a time.
To buck up those trees wouldn't take long with a bow saw and axe. And
think of the exercise.LOL.
I would hardly call pruning a few trees and cutting up small ones like
that heavy labor. I trim all my prunings with my bow saw (have 3 chain
saws) to fit compactly in the PU. It doesn't take very long at all.
Every branch is trimmed until it is one stick with no side
branches/twigs. My usual load is to the top of my 2ft racks and well
stomped down so there is a lot of brush to a load.
Yes, I use a manual can opener.
I bet if they had electric beer can openers you would probably buy one
to save the "work".
Since you didn't quote any text, I'll assume you are responding to me.
The OP wrote "Got to saw up 2 felled pine trees in my dad's yard
tomorrow. (5 inch 14feet tall, & 8 inch diameter 18 feet tall"
That is hardly pruning.
Question.....Would the work that you do be faster with a chainsaw, or
with a bow-saw?
Cutting up 5" stuff with a bow saw is hardly extreme labor. I heat
with wood and in the woods will use my chainsaw to section stuff down
to about that size. Around the homestead, it is common to be removing
limbs, and even trees, that size. If I'm not using them for firewood -
bowsaw is the choice. I removed 1 black walnut, 12" diameter stump,
plus a whole load of prunings off another black walnut last summer.
Chainsaw was used only for the falling cut, cutting a few large limbs
while on the ladder, and sectioning the log for firewood. Bow saw for
all else. Cutting small diameter stuff on the ground with a chainsaw
while keeping the chain ou of the dirt is not easy.
Oops. I realized that I hadn't answered the question.
Depends, for a few cuts, it is faster with the bow saw by the time you
get the chainsaw out, mix gas/oil and fire it up. Remember he is only
using it once or twice a year. That calls for fresh gas/oil every time
and if it is a cheap saw it may not start easily. May even be so for
several cuts when you figure in the maintenance and chain sharping on a
Why is 'speed' so important? For a few trees if it takes an hour with
a bow saw or 45 minutes with a chainsaw, so what? Most time spent in
his work is in the clean-up, not the sawing. I fugure when either
pruning or cutting firewood that at most only 10% of the time goes into
actually running whatever saw I am using, be it chain or bowsaw. The
rest of the time is in cleanup, loading etc. Now if I am getting cash
money paid for the work, yep the chainsaw will be used when
Does he want a chainsaw because it is a 'neat thing' Fine, no problem.
Does he 'need' a chainsaw? Not for what he described. I am too much
of a scotchman I guess, I don't buy stuff because it is 'cool', I buy
because it is a needed tool. In his place I would have at most a
sawzall, definitely not a chainsaw.
You know, the other factor that has not been addressed here, and some
people would probably hoot about it, is that a saw is probably one of
the most dangerous tools you can use. And, the mistakes made with one
are usually made by new users, or tired users.
I learned how to use a saw while working for the U.S. Forest Service.
One of the most important lessons I learned was safety equipment. I
never fire up a saw without chaps, hardhat with face screen and ear
protection, heavy boots and gloves.
Add those into the price of the saw....or not. I've been using saws
for 30 years. I'd never claim to be an expert. I also hope to never
get the nickname "stubby"
Never use a saw without proper training and safety gear. Never loan a
saw to anyone I am not certain knows how to use them and will also use
safety gear. Period.
There's a reason why the bar is so far to the right. Cause most saw
operators are right handers. Keep the saw to the right, and your head
to the left. So if it kicks back at you, the saw will go over your
I've seen saw guys with their face right in line with the saw.
Explained this, and they keep sawing with their head right in line.
Christopher A. Young
You can\'t shout down a troll.
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