Say what you will but why make extra work for yourself? Sure the initial cut on trees that size is no big deal but then (in my case anyway) they have to be cut into smaller pieces (24" and bundled) in order for the county/city to haul them away.
How many ppl suggesting a hand saw still use a manual can-opener?
Because it's about an hour's extra work, and it saves you $75. I know, a lot of people make more than $75 an hour, even after taxes. I'm not one of them.
Leave the logs in 8' lengths, and sell them on ebay.
How many people suggesting a hand saw only open 3-4 cans a year?
Actually, I do use a manual can opener. I have an collection of "P-38's" from my "Uncle Sam" that I use. Of course it may have to do with living in the mountains where electricity is often a "sometimes" thing for weeks at a time.
To buck up those trees wouldn't take long with a bow saw and axe. And think of the exercise.LOL.
I would hardly call pruning a few trees and cutting up small ones like that heavy labor. I trim all my prunings with my bow saw (have 3 chain saws) to fit compactly in the PU. It doesn't take very long at all. Every branch is trimmed until it is one stick with no side branches/twigs. My usual load is to the top of my 2ft racks and well stomped down so there is a lot of brush to a load.
Yes, I use a manual can opener.
I bet if they had electric beer can openers you would probably buy one to save the "work".
Cutting up 5" stuff with a bow saw is hardly extreme labor. I heat with wood and in the woods will use my chainsaw to section stuff down to about that size. Around the homestead, it is common to be removing limbs, and even trees, that size. If I'm not using them for firewood - bowsaw is the choice. I removed 1 black walnut, 12" diameter stump, plus a whole load of prunings off another black walnut last summer. Chainsaw was used only for the falling cut, cutting a few large limbs while on the ladder, and sectioning the log for firewood. Bow saw for all else. Cutting small diameter stuff on the ground with a chainsaw while keeping the chain ou of the dirt is not easy.
Bought a Remington at Lowes. It didn't cut worth a damn. About to take it back when I noticed that it came with the chain installed backwards!!
-------------------------------------------------------------- I've had the $44 Remingtons, and I'm thinking you must've bought a floor model, as in the box, the Bar, and Chain are not mounted, or unless you perhaps mounted it backwards?
I took mine back, as I didn't care for the Chain Lube leaking all over my Shed floor. mark
One tip for you folks with the 2-stroke devices like Saws, Blowers, String Trimmers, etc, (and even lawn Mowers-Snow Blowers) to get them started without having to dislocate your arm, is buy yourself a can of Ether Starting Fluid, and give it a squirt at the Carb-Air Filter. Mark
Aw, come on, you bunch of woosies. It is absolutely no work at all to cut down a tree, cut it up into small lengths, and split the bigger pieces. I can cut up to three cords of wood in a day and have time to go fishing. And I have had 5 way bypass surgery and an artificial aortic valve.
But then, I use a Husky 345 chainsaw and a Honda splitter.
I'm not stupid like some people who take axes and saws and do the same thing. Guess they don't have electricity or power tools where they are.
Oops. I realized that I hadn't answered the question.
Depends, for a few cuts, it is faster with the bow saw by the time you get the chainsaw out, mix gas/oil and fire it up. Remember he is only using it once or twice a year. That calls for fresh gas/oil every time and if it is a cheap saw it may not start easily. May even be so for several cuts when you figure in the maintenance and chain sharping on a power saw.
Why is 'speed' so important? For a few trees if it takes an hour with a bow saw or 45 minutes with a chainsaw, so what? Most time spent in his work is in the clean-up, not the sawing. I fugure when either pruning or cutting firewood that at most only 10% of the time goes into actually running whatever saw I am using, be it chain or bowsaw. The rest of the time is in cleanup, loading etc. Now if I am getting cash money paid for the work, yep the chainsaw will be used when appropriate.
Does he want a chainsaw because it is a 'neat thing' Fine, no problem. Does he 'need' a chainsaw? Not for what he described. I am too much of a scotchman I guess, I don't buy stuff because it is 'cool', I buy because it is a needed tool. In his place I would have at most a sawzall, definitely not a chainsaw.
You know, the other factor that has not been addressed here, and some people would probably hoot about it, is that a saw is probably one of the most dangerous tools you can use. And, the mistakes made with one are usually made by new users, or tired users.
I learned how to use a saw while working for the U.S. Forest Service. One of the most important lessons I learned was safety equipment. I never fire up a saw without chaps, hardhat with face screen and ear protection, heavy boots and gloves.
Add those into the price of the saw....or not. I've been using saws for 30 years. I'd never claim to be an expert. I also hope to never get the nickname "stubby"
Never use a saw without proper training and safety gear. Never loan a saw to anyone I am not certain knows how to use them and will also use safety gear. Period.
I have 3 two-cycle tools. Weedeater, blower and chainsaw. For some reason I've never had a problem starting any of them. Maybe because I'm in Florida and they get used more often than say ppl living in colder climates?
Now when I owned dirt bikes, that was a different story!
There's a reason why the bar is so far to the right. Cause most saw operators are right handers. Keep the saw to the right, and your head to the left. So if it kicks back at you, the saw will go over your right shoulder.
I've seen saw guys with their face right in line with the saw. Explained this, and they keep sawing with their head right in line.
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