Here are pix of (I think) wrought iron yard furniture that I have
allowed to deteriorate for years. Rusted to hell.
I really like the furniture, esp. the table has a lovely glass top
that I put in. So I would like to rehab. them.
But is this feasible as a DIY job? In terms of time and effort?
If anybody thinks it's worth a try, what would you use to remove the
rust and prep for repainting? I have heard good and bad about Naval
Jelly. Is there a "professional" product that would do a better job?
TIA for any help.
This is a new Tiny Pic account, so hope it comes through OK.
It would be lots more work and expense than it is worth .. the mesh
seats will still rust through. Apply the cost of rust remover, paint to
a new set of furniture :o)
I see a couple spots of deep rust, but the rest of it looks savable. I
would take a crack at it, but this type of work is what I do. Your best bet
is to get a HF wire wheel grinder, and knock off the rust down to the steel.
Get some paint remover and take off the rest of the paint, of if just
removing the rust is enough, paint over it, using something like Rustoleum,
and use two to three coats. If you have a sprayer, spray it heavy.
And take time and care to learn how to use that little grinder, or it will
kick your ass all the way to the ER. DAMHIKT. DO not buy anything but a
CUP KNOT brush. Not the flat twisted wire one, but the one that looks like
a cup. They're the easiest to control, get into tight places, and throw the
least amount of wires off at high RPM. Wear a full face shield, cuz if you
just wear glasses, those little high speed wires will stick in your face and
lips and nose and forehead.
And next time, take care of it right.
***Tx, man -- but it's not "mesh" seat - it's a solid metal lattice.
That said, I tend to agree -- after checking prices at sandblasting
down in the industrial areas -- that it's more expense than I can
Probably more work, too, if I heed the DIY suggestions of other kind
about renting sand blaster; buying special wire brush for drill;
furniture with acid-soaked sheets, etc.
So I'm figuratively starving to death between various bales of hay.
What I might have to end up doing is a quick and dirty fix to just get
off as much rust as possible, then slap on a couple of coats of
something sturdy -- thanks, guys, for recommendations. I HATE
settling for a half-***ed job, but the numbers are against me.
Any more thoughts welcome!
Mesh, lattice...the stuff in your pix is the same as a table I tried to
refinish, after removing rust...waste of time. One can purchase the
mesh/lattice, I believe, but I couldn't remove ours so it was not an
option for me.
Trouble with the lattice is that there are so many edges, and paint
doesn't cover the edges of the mesh very well..very thin. I sanded and
wire-brushed ours, got off as much rust as possible, used rusty primer, etc.
If it's doable, perhaps removing the mesh and replacing it with straps
of some kind and new cushions? Still a good deal of work, but the table
is nice enough I'd try to salvage
To be honest, it just looks like "cheap" thin painted steel.
Looks like all tube and square tube. Faux wrought iron.
Wrought iron is generally bulkier.and has form.
This stuff will collapse if the rust takes too much off the tube.
Not too much different than my rusted Chevy rocker panels.
Might have looked "cute" or "quaint" when brand new.
I've seen a lot of stuff like this on the curb waiting for the trash
Stuff like this is one reason plastic became popular.
Locate a local firm who could sandblast that patio set for you...
Then apply a good marine grade enamel and you should be
good for years... Not a DIY project with all those tiny edges
and the holes in the seats...
Lots of people would find that set some-what desirable, given it's
design and construction. It helps that you have a glass table-top that
appears to be intact.
Sand blasting is by far the most effective way to prepare them for a new
coat of paint. I would just crack open your local phone book and look
under sand blasting.
After sand blasting, look into getting them powder-coated. It's a
coating that tough as hell and will last several lifetimes. In fact, a
powder-coating place would probably sand blast them for you.
If you are bent on doing this yourself, then muriatic acid (available by
the gallon for about $10 at pool supply stores and even Home Despot)
will take the rust off pretty quickly, but it's nasty to work with
depending on how much (or how little) you dillute it with water. This
is also hydrochloric acid.
Applying it in this case is tricky. Probably take an old bed-sheet
soaked in the acid and cover the items and tuck it into the nooks and
crevices. After an hour or two the rust can either be rinsed off or a
little light work with a scrub brush, then re-apply the sheet and leave
it for another hour. This will also take off most of the old paint.
Rinse it off well with water, and try to get it dry as soon as possible
after rinsing because it will try to rust a little if just allowed to
dry on it's own. Do it on a warm sunny day if possible. And don't do
it on your driveway or grass (if you value them that is). The acid will
"clean" your concrete driveway where-ever it lands.
Some people will say that the acid will alter or change the surface of
the metal (I think the term is hydrogen embrittlement) but I wouldn't
worry about it in your case. This is more critical for other types of
metal surfaces (like the sheet metal of a car).
***Hey, that's not a minus, that's a PLUS. The concrete apron in
of the garage where the outdoor entertainment area is proposed
hasn't been cleaned for umpty decades. Not car grease, just all
kinds of stains & such. So I wouldn't necessarily care if acid got
on the concrete. I have muriatic acid, but would need to get more.
Question: Would I need to buy special "acid-resistant" gloves to
work with the muriatic on such a large scale?
I was vaguely thinking of renting a power washer when/if I get back
to doing a decent job on the front porch* and using it on the
concrete apron. Is that do-able? IOW, would it work better
than the muriatic acid?
* I had to slap on a hasty coat of paint instead of getting it
down to bare concrete, because out-of-towners were due.
Thanks for some cool info. Let me know about the power washer
on concrete apron, special gloves, etc.
YES. And do not even think of doing anything with HCl anywhere other
than outdoors, with a breeze blowing, and you upwind of the
workpiece. And do not store the leftover acid near anything that can
rust or corrode.
Personally I do not like the idea of using HCl for this, I would far
rather you used phosphoric acid for several reasons - first, HCl as
you may have inferred from my previous message will release all sorts
of nasty crap into the air that is not good for your lungs (molecular
chlorine, and phosgene gas) as you use it, and also it can do some
damage to the metal itself if it is in fact iron and not steel.
Phosphoric acid is nicer to the metal and will also leave behind a
phosphate coating when you are done. Unfortunately I do not know
where you can easily obtain a large quantity of phosphoric acid, while
the HCl is easily available both at your local pool supply and also
likely your local hardware store.
You will really need to do both. You'll need to get the grease off
the concrete somehow, and then etch it with the HCl (which is the
right tool for the job for etching concrete.) You'll know it's not
clean enough when you go to etch it; if there's any grease on there
the HCl will not soak into the top layer of the concrete but will bead
up on top like rain on a freshly waxed car hood.
Above and beyond the embrittlement concerns, I had a water manifold
for a Packard V-8 engine that was really rusty and the water passages
were starting to clog with all the rust and scale. I had the idea
that HCl would make short work of it, but by the time that enough of
the rust was gone for it to be considered "clean enough" the iron
itself was starting to become spongy and flaky and would actually
break apart if you hit it with a cold chisel. Not Good! I had
another one in similar shape, that one I electolytically derusted; it
took longer but had no toxic byproducts and it did not damage the good
iron that was left.
as always YMMV...
Muriatic will eat the concrete before it touches stains...it is NOT a
stain remover. P/W will remove a lot of stains, but you can carve your
initials in concrete if pressure too high or you are too close.
Muriatic on concrete is a pretty interesting spectacle.
If it's applied evenly, diluted about 25% acid to 75% water, and brushed
around the concrete with a broom for about 10 minutes and then washed
away, it will be brighter / whiter looking when it dries. Time is key -
don't leave it sitting for too long on the concrete.
They sell all sorts of cleaning solutions for power washers, one of
which is for siding and driveway. I think the stuff is slightly acidic
for the same reason.
Just ordinary rubber gloves. I have a heavy duty pair of black rubber
gloves that are so thick they can practically stand up by themselves.
They go almost up to my elbows. I use them when I'm mixing and pouring
concrete, but I also use them to spray down my ABS plastic concrete
forms with acid to clean them. I spray it at FULL STRENGTH. I wear a
relatively cheap respirator mask when doing this:
NOT like this:
The acid isin't necessarily "bad" if you get it on your skin. It will
sting if you get it into any cuts (most troublesome for fingertips).
The fumes are what you don't want to breath. Stings your nose.
There is an alternate way to apply the acid instead of soaking it with
If you have some empty spray bottles (ie- windex or other glass-cleaning
spray bottles or similar) then you can fill them with the acid and
hand-spray the acid on your metal furnature.
I suppose you can also brush it on. Either way, you probably want to
spread some plastic under them to collect the acid as it drips off. If
you use the spray bottle technique, and fill the bottles all the way
with acid (or a mix of acid and water) it will work ok for 1 bottle, but
by the time you're done and the bottle is empty it may not work a second
time. I think the acid gums up the seals in the spray bottles and they
don't function very well a second time.
When-ever I leave a bunch of drill bits and driver bits, screws (etc)
outside and they get rusty (say, after a few months - really nasty
looking) I put them in a plastic bin and fill the bin half hot water and
half muriatic acid and let it bubble away for 15 minutes. Everything
comes out shiny and clean after rinsing them.
I have a 13 hp, 4000 PSI 6 GPM power washer, so I know what they can do,
and they'd be great for taking off the loose and not-so-loose paint, but
they won't take the rust off.
That's going to complicate things. Could remove it with laquer thinner
(that's my solvent of choice for removing and cleaning a lot of things).
If you had a kick-ass power washer, and use a 15-degree spray head,
that's all you need to clean a concrete surface. Just water is all you
really need (no detergent or acid treatment). It's amazing how clean it
comes out. A bit time consuming for a large surface. Power washers
with big gas engines don't like to be run continuously for more than
maybe 20 minutes (at least you shouldn't for the consumer-grade
models). Deep cleaning a 10 x 10 patio pad or section of driveway is
all you should do and then give the washer a break for 15-30 minutes
before doing another section.
On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 19:00:57 -0700 (PDT), Higgs Boson
It can be saved, but you have quite a few hours work there. Sand
blasting is one mthod, but a couple of wire wheels can take a lot of
There are some good paint, but for the most durability, check out
places that do powder coating. Looks good and is very durable.
Same company that does sandblasting can probably put on a protective
coating before the flash rust gets started. Look for 'metal finishing'
in yellow pages. It will be a couple hundred bucks, though, and you will
need to take it to them in pieces.
Wire brush and POR-15 will work.
Sand/media blasting and powdercoating is an option although might not be
if you have lots of property and the ability to set up a container large
enough to hold the pieces, another option would be electrolytic
derusting, followed by POR-15 or similar paint. (I'd explain the
process, but if you just DAGS for "electrolytic derusting" you should
find lots of information)
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
First off, if spray paint cans are in your plans, don't waste your time,
it won't last.
If it was mine I'd sand blast it using my little inexpensive hand held
sandblaster, then give it a good coat of 2K (2 part/paint and
hardener)auto primer, then a coat of good auto paint.
(Basecoat/Clearcoat if you really want to get fancy) You see, I've been
taking a night course in auto body repair and painting everything in
site. :-) Current project is my 37 year old garden tractor that I still
use to mow the lawn. Eventually I'll start on the 55 Bel Air 2dr
hardtop I bought for $350 when I was 15...... I'm 50 now.
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