Can I use Shingles??

I'm ready to shingle a new patio roof (16x10) the slope is just over 1:12. I live in central Texas, not much snow. I know shingle manfacturers (GAF) do not recommend shingles less then

2:12, but if I double the felt/tar paper up should shingleing still be OK? Thanks..
Reply to
AgaPSDIVER
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Doesn't that answer your question?

-- Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?

Reply to
Doug Miller

Why do you want to suspend the laws of physics? You know you will have to do it over in a few years, so do it right, do it once and get on with other more important projects. There are numerous choices of more suitable roofing materials in the market, perhaps Ondura, metal standing seam, just for openers. Choosing one of these could add more value to your home than common shingles. Survey the NG archives and you are likely to get some more nice alternatives. Good luck.

Joe

Reply to
Joe Bobst

If your feel you really have to do this you can get a bucket of asphalt cement and lay a 1 inch bead along the nailing strip on EVERY SINGLE COURSE. If you're careful, and don't get cement all over the freakin' place, that should seal it down nicely. Or you could shorten the courses, leaving a smaller exposure but that calls for more shingles than the standard application, hence more cost. But you really should reconsider and use roll 90lb mineral surfaced roofing. Use a lot of cement and don't face nail except at the gable sides if called for. And cover any exposed nail head with cement. It's not as esthetically pleasing but it does the job.

Reply to
Stoic

I assume that the concern is water getting up under shingles that have not laid flat and bonded to the shingle below. This would only occur from the wind blowing the rain up under the shingles... surely not from water running uphill. If the front edges of the shingles lay flat and bond properly... what are the concerns with 1:12 pitch. Thanks..

Reply to
AgaPSDIVER

And why are you not worried about wind blowing rain up under the shingles?

It's not just water you need to worry about. The shallower the pitch of the roof, the more easily wind can rip the shingles right off.

The manufacturer recommends a minimum pitch for a REASON. They didn't just make something up.

Everybody who has responded so far has told you the same thing the manufacturer says: don't do it. The roof pitch is too shallow. Of course, you question the manufacturer's recommendation, so there isn't any reason to suppose you'll pay any more attention to the advice you receive here -- which of course leads one to wonder why you bothered posting in the first place, since you appear determined to do what you want regardless.

Prediction: in six months, you'll be posting again, asking how to fix a leaky

1:12 roof.

-- Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?

Reply to
Doug Miller

Depends on your definition of "OK," but I'd say no.

If you don't want to go with a low-pitch, surfaced, heat-applied roll roofing (and for so small a project, you might very well not), I would suggest a regular, surfaced,

90# or heavier roll roofing. Go with the manufacturer's installation instructions for your very shallow pitch (if the mfg even recommends the product for that pitch) or start at the bottom, overlap each successive course by apx. 6" in a bed of roofing cement and nail. Seal the nail heads with roofing cement or other approved method. I'd recommend metal flashing at house abutment due to the sharp angle subtended by the 1:12 pitch. Bed it in roofing cement as well.

Of course, the best method in the long haul is heat applied product.

Jim

PS You will not like the appearance of shingles at so shallow a pitch or a relatively low roof. If appearance is a criteria, be sure to stay away from shingles. The mismatch with your existing house, whether exactly the same shingle or not, will be MOST apparent.

PSS Gotta get in my plug for the language. Once you have roofed your patio, you no longer have a patio . . . by definition. A "roofed patio" is a pretty good description of a patio that has been retro-roofed, but otherwise is an oxymoron.

JL

----- Original Message ----- From: AgaPSDIVER Newsgroups: alt.building.construction,alt.home.repair Sent: Tuesday, 16 December, 2003 10:09 Subject: Can I use Shingles??

I'm ready to shingle a new patio roof (16x10) the slope is just over 1:12. I live in central Texas, not much snow. I know shingle manfacturers (GAF) do not recommend shingles less then

shingles less then

shingleing still

Reply to
Js Walker Lazenby Jr

I think your main problem if you shingle it would be high winds. Think you get quite a bit of that where you live. I would look for another solution.

Reply to
Des Perado

The key is to be bonded properly. How are you going to know that they are bonded properly and that the bond is holding when the shingles start to get past prime and curl? 2:12 is bad enough 1:12 is asking for trouble.

Just my opinion.

Reply to
Ron

It will work, but don't expect it to last.

Reply to
Phisherman

Actually, an inspector, before I bought house, said that 3-tab shingles on a flat section of roof were okay. Honest, he did. Of course, the retained moisture caused the roof and adjacent framing to rot pretty rapidly, which I noticed on demolishing all that crap shortly after moving in. Now, it's pitched at 1 in 6, dry as proverbial bone.

Do it right, or don't do it, IMHO. Next question. :')

John

Reply to
John Barry

Why not put ribbed steel on it. The same stuff used on pole barns. Comes in many colors and looks nice. It will outlast shingles many times over and is easier to install. The price may be a little higher, but it's worth the extra cost. Be sure to install as recommended, using neo-washer nails or screws.

Reply to
me
.

shingles less then

shingleing still

Now, who will give me even odds that this "inspector" is a "home inspector," and what odds am I offered that he was employed by the seller or a real estate broker? I'll want a bit better than even on the latter, as there are so damned many of these "inspectors" now. Just about one for every licensed real estate agent . . . or soon will be, I'll wager.

(I am not a betting man, incidentally; so take heed!)

did.

"Honest, he did." Meaning he actually said it. No surprise there.

"Honest, he was," as in the Cat in the Hat? Nah.

Jim

framing to

that crap

as

Reply to
Js Walker Lazenby Jr

shingles that have

only occur

surely not

Yes, surely.

properly...

The size of that "If."

Together with the concern that a shingle roof looks pretty bad at so shallow a pitch . . . seeing all those ugly, curling edges and no faces . . . and the leaves and stuff that won't wash or blow off.

Jim

bucket of asphalt

EVERY SINGLE

the freakin'

shorten the

more shingles

really should

Use a lot of

called for. And

esthetically

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com

shingles less then

shingleing still

Reply to
Js Walker Lazenby Jr

On Tue, 16 Dec 2003 17:01:43 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (AgaPSDIVER) scribbled this interesting note:

(Shaking head from side to side..."Tsk, tsk, tsk...)

I'm going out on a limb here. You've already bought your shingles and actually read the package and found out they are not recommended for your application?

First things first. The strip of adhesive on the shingles is not, I repeat is not to seal against water penetration, it is specifically to guard against the wind blowing the shingles off.

Secondly, water does indeed sometimes go uphill. Not far, but have you ever watched water when you slowly pour it out of a cup? The surface tension of the fluid carries it around the lowest point of the cup and some of it ends up higher than the lowest point on the other side!

It is very simple, if you install shingles on this roof you will have leaks. Maybe not immediately, but you will have them. This is not conjecture or guess work, it is a certainly. Even if you seal every joint and fastener you will have leaks. (We once had the sheriff of a neighboring county insist, against all our best advice, on having shingles installed just as you propose. We sealed every joint between the butt ends of every shingle as well as every fastener. And we were using laminated, "architectural" style shingles. Not too much after that we got a call from him telling us that he would pay us to come back out, remove what he insisted upon having put in, and replace it with a single membrane type roof. End of story.)

Use them if you like. Some people have to learn by experiencing things first hand and either cannot or will not learn from the experience of others...

-- John Willis (Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)

Reply to
John Willis

On Tue, 16 Dec 2003 13:07:38 -0500, "Js Walker Lazenby Jr" scribbled this interesting note:

90# will rot in five to ten years.

Heat applied is not the only way to go.

formatting link
one of the ways to go.

-- John Willis (Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)

Reply to
John Willis

I think the main concerns are:

  1. Water being blown up under the shingles as you say,
  2. Wind lifting the shingles up,
  3. Voiding of the manufacturers warranty on the shingles should you ever need it.

Matt

Reply to
Matthew S. Whiting

That wasn't an inspector. That was an idiot impersonating an inspector.

Matt

Reply to
Matthew S. Whiting

Being in cen. Tx. you should know all about steel roofs. 26 ga. not the HD paper thin tin

Reply to
Rick Samuel

What if you were to use an underlayment of WRGrace's Ice and Water shield?

Wouldn't this act as a waterproofer, while the shingles could be the decorative layer?

Reply to
Larry Davick

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