1) whether the trusses were designed to take a ceiling load
2) what type of ceiing you have in mind
very difficult to tell from here w/o more info
4' on center? What's on top of the trusses that's spanning 4'? With
that spacing - a likely cost saving measure - it's unlikely there's a
lot of leeway in the load handling capabilities of the roof framing.
You'd have to frame a ceiling before you could cover it, and with 4'
between trusses that wouldn't be easy to do with a light structure.
The lightest ceiling I could think of would be the plastic corrugated
roofing stuff, and that would still sag a bunch with 4' spacing.
This is a 30 x30 garage with a metal roof. I think it is a 3 or 4 12
pitch. My ideas was to add 2x4's every 4 feet between trusses and use
7/16 osb for a ceiling. If everyone here thinks it might sag or is a
bad idea, I thought abotu using 4x8 insulated panels? I wonder how
that would look?
But your local code enforcement will have the final say on whatever is
acceptable. I'm going to guess that you're in an area where you don't
get snow because that method could never meet roof snow-load
requirements up here. So if you are in an area that gets snow, I think
you're in trouble before you even start. If you don't have the design
specs for it, you might need an engineering assessment just to pass code
as it is. Don't take chances because they could make you tear it down.
And like I said, the local code office will have final say on
Read (and heed) Bob's (aka fft) answer -- it depends _entirely_ on the
truss design and we can't tell from here.
Chances are you're ok, but you need to go research the truss or get an
expert opinion. Call a local truss company; they have the poop given
the dimensions and construction details...
How old is the building? Do oyu know the designer / builder / truss
engineer / truss mfr?
For a reasonable cost the truss engineer (if you can identitfy him)
should be able to give a quick design of what you'd need to add to the
truss to handle your ceiling load. For him it will be a snap.
I was thinking about using tile (fake shakes) on an 80 year old house
& paid a roofing enigneer $300 to come out, check out the roof & give
me a strength upgrade design.
I "might" (personally) consider "winging it" but I'd for sure have
one on my associates (CE/SE) lay eyes on it first
also....Metal roofing is not all that lightweight 20 gage steel would
be ~equal to 7/16 OSB.
Drywall even heavier.....a light but still non-zero load would be
ceiling tiles / that Homesote(?) crap
I think you'll be in the 1 to 2 psf (pounds per sq ft)
range.......for the entire roof system, probably not a deal killer but
getting the trusses to handle the loads locally might be a problem.
Get your trusses looked at, modify them as needed & install your
All- Note screen name / handle change....I don't know how I switched
from BobK207 to fftt....I'm justt a dumb Google Group user.
But I tried to follow Duane's example but my initials were taken :(
so now a more meaningful hybrid
You'd be hard pressed to find 20 ga exterior siding; 26 is far more
common inexpensive. Didn't look up actual mil thickness difference but
it's certainly quite a lot lighter.
That said, the question of what the lower chords are designed to carry
still remains and will until OP finds out unless he does just want to
wing it and see what happens...(not highly recommended, btw :) ).
I just pulled the a number out of the air to do the weight calc.....
20 gage (.038?) was the only "thin" gage I could recall.
I have no experience with metal siding & only minimal with metal
roofing.....I thought 20 gage was pretty thin
but it looks like roofing and siding are even thinner than I had
Plus (doh!) I was thinking steel....aluminum would be even lighter
So maybe a ceiling made of siding makes sense?
Without information on what the bottom chords of those trusses were
designed to carry, it's stupid to guess. The suggestion of a
suspended acoustic ceiling is about the only thing I would not have
any qualms about, and that would depend on how many light fixtures you
were going to install in it.
If you can determine who built the metal building, you'd probably be
able to find out the load information on the trusses.
Buy some more metal siding in lengths to span the garage perpendicular
to the trusses. it will likely meet code where you are, it's light
weight, it can carry a full 6" insulation batt or more if you need to
heat the place and it doesn't burn. With a helper you could do the
whole building in an hour. No problems with sagging, termites, or
other annoyances. Choose a nice pattern and it won't look bad at all.
If the siding available seems too gauche for your taste, most farm
building makers will have real ceiling panels you can buy. Maybe a bit
pricier, but prettier.
that tin weighs a ton, ever tried to lift a sheet yourself? they use
forklifts to move the stuff.
how about popping up some foam board.. thats light weight, and you
could still insulate above it too.
You are confusing industrial building 20 ga (likely) with the
prevalent 26 ga used in farm and commercial buildings. I helped a
friend assemble a metal building a few years ago and we had no
particular trouble dealing with 10' and 20' sheets. Some ceiling
sheets may be 28 ga but I haven't really checked. If so, they would be
just what the OP needs.
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