Hello,
I was watching holmes on homes, and saw a tool used to hang cabinets that I'm interested in learning about. It looked like a 2x4 with a speed squared at the end. The 2x4 hanged out from the wall, and the speed square was adjusted for level, and then you can place the cabinet on top of it to hang it. Too often, too many hands are involved, and this tool looks real handy.
So, anyone have info on it?
thx,
Sounds like a jig/rig/trick any experienced cabinet maker/installer uses. Unless I don't follow the description, there's nothing more to it than that and I would presume it was "holmesbuilt" :) in all likelihood...
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I have wondered why we still do cabinets the way we do and not use the European style where a rail is attached to the wall and then the cabinets are hung on the rail.
Because old habits die hard. It would also require manufacturers to retool, as the cabinet sides would now have to cover the gap, and that's expensive.
R
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Ok, I thought I would try and sketch out this tool. Since the 'lifts' are several hundred dollars, this looked cool, and cheap. The 'trangle' fits against the wall, and creates a flat surface for sitting the cabinet on. The leg (2x4?) moves so you can adjust angle and height. It was made of wood. This ring a bell with anyone?
Thx!
Ones such as you've drawn - good job on the picture, BTW - are often contractor made jigs. Store bought items are made in a number of configurations. Google cabinet jacks and see what you like.
RAlso, I have it needs to be done this way because when you move you take the cabinets with you. So in the US it would just be an extra expense.
Kids and earthquakes? Yeah, hanging on cleats is a quite viable method, but you do still need some sort of CYA fastener so they don't fall on kids/drunks/stupid people, IMHO. A screw through the bottom rail of each cabinet into a stud would probably do it, if the cleat is catching all the weight. Home-made 'french cleats' are in most of the DIY books- just rip some 1x6 down the middle at 45 degrees, screw one side to wall, and cut up the other side and screw the back of each cabinet. Unless cabinet has an inset back, you need to trim out the ends, and provide a standoff on the bottom edge so cabinets hang vertically. You also have to make the judgement call about how level to make the wall cleat, to hide how out of square the room, ceiling walls, and corners are. If there is a bulkhead, you also have to trim the top of the front face to hide the gap created when cabinet drops down into slot on wall cleat. A lot of fussy cutting and measuring to get it to look right. If you have some strong back assistants, easier to just get them to brute-force it into postion while you steer and spot the first couple of screws in each box.
BTDT, on about 40 kitchens in the first apartments I worked on. BTW, when framing a kitchen, be kind- put blocking at the top and bottom rail levels where the uppers go, and at the back rail level for the base cabinets. Your installer will thank you. If they know the blocking is always gonna be there, it eliminates the need to hunt for studs.
aem sends....
Another suggestion. Will the area under the cabinets be covered? When I hunk my laundry room cabinets, I put a 1 x 3 right on the wall at the bottom line. It was enough to take the weight while the cabinet was held in place by my wife while I put the first screw in. Then I took it down, filled the holes, painted, and you never see it.
Good advice Ed, it's what we use now, but still requires additional hands to hold it inplace. This is what I'm trying to get away from. Almost a cheap, one person( 1 and half person) operation.
tom
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