I've confirmed that the automatic oiler on my well maintained, 1.5
year old saw has stopped working (burned up bar and chain before I
knew). I removed the chain brake cover and blew out (with compressed
air) all accumulated debris. Ran the saw at mid throttle without the
chain and bar and didn't see any oil output. The passage from the oil
reservoir is clear (emptied oil and blew compressed through passage
from chain brake to reservoir). Any clues? And how exactly does the
saw force the oil from the resevoir, through the passage, and onto the
bar? The Poulan manual and consumer support 800 rep are useless.
Would love to fix this myself; can't afford the downtime at the shop
PS - This saw has been nothing but trouble. I use it to maintain my
25 acres and to cut wood to heat my home. I'll be buying a higher end
model next time.
I'd go get the saw you want today and fix this one at your leisure. Always
good to have a second class saw in the shop for when the good one breaks.
That's what our Homelites are for. Gastonia, NC has a Homelite factory so
refurbished units are plentiful here.
As to what saw you get? Another thread but my vote is for Stihl.
email@example.com (Joe Bobst) wrote in message
I would vote for either. Actually I have 2 stihl and 1 husky. Two
saws always go with me so I have a backup in case of failure or to cut
my way out if I get pinched. Of course the main reason for 2 (or 3) is
that each has a different length bar and is used where they are best
fitted. 16" (limbing/trim, 20" main bucking, 24" for the bigger
firstname.lastname@example.org (Bruce) wrote in message
There are AFAIK only two types of oiler, mechanical, i.e., a pump or
via a "pulse line" off the crankcase. The mechanical ones are not
that expensive of a fix. I don't know what you do with the pulse line
type other than be sure the line itself is okay.
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