blower motor on rheem rged furnace

[patliz1]

After doing a lot of troubleshooting like clearing the condensate trap (water was getting in the pressure switch line), changed the ifc board last year, changing the igniter, fixing a faulting ground to the furnace switch (electrician did not ground it properly) replaced the thermostat (old one had corroded contacts and a lot of drywall dust, checking the voltage across the pressure switch (it's working) and now changing the blower speed leads (The high speed was not working right-causing the furnace to overheat and shutdown--so I changed it to med hi--much better so far)and soon I'll be changing some of the tubing to the condensate trap the questions now are:

can I replace just the motor for the blower if that is the cause of the hi speed not to work or just leave it alone or is there somoething else I can check to see like the capicitor (and how to check it)

how do you tell if the inducer isn't working properly it does make a little noisy sound--not quite right

Is there anything else to check on the condensate trap and/or the port where the tube from the condensate trap goes to on the main unit. What should inside the port look like when one takes off the tube.

The furnace is 12 years old and for the most part has worked fairly well until recently, but we have had a lot of remodling going on and I would like to get at least another year or 2 out of this furnace before I replace it with a new one.

Thanks

[Hello Friend]

'can I replace just the motor for the blower if that is the cause of the hi speed not to work or just leave it alone or is there somoething else I can check to see like the capicitor (and how to check it)'

Yes..you can change out the motor only. You dont have to replace the blower wheel unless it is out of balance . If the high speed for the motor works but doesnt come up to speed...there is a good chance that a new Capacitor would solve it. If high speed doesnt work at all, then its the high speed winding thats gone., in which case youd have to replace the motor.

'how do you tell if the inducer isn't working properly it does make a little noisy sound--not quite right'

That particular Rheem furnace has somewhat noisy Inducers even right from the factory. If it isnt working right...the amps usually go up on it / it vibrates excessively / the motor can be hotter than normal / and it can make high pitched noises indicating (usually) that the bearings are worn and going out. Make sure the mounting nuts havent worked loose. Oil it if you can.

'Is there anything else to check on the condensate trap and/or the port where the tube from the condensate trap goes to on the main unit. What should inside the port look like when one takes off the tube.'

Pull off all the tubes and make sure theres no debris at each nipple. Also, blow thru each tube to be sure theres no obstructions. The port should be wide open when you take the tubes off. BLow thru the condensate trap to remove any debris that accumulated, then, refill the trap with water before operating the furnace.

'The furnace is 12 years old and for the most part has worked fairly well until recently, but we have had a lot of remodling going on and I would like to get at least another year or 2 out of this furnace before I replace it with a new one. Thanks'

There were alot of problems with these RHeem first generation 90 plus furnaces ; have it checked and cleaned every year. Heat exchangers have been a big problem in the 1980's-1990's. Have it looked at closely and have a carbon monoxide detector in your living area --- NightHawk at Menards gives you a ppm digital readout . Cost is $40

[Bubba]

Hello dont know. If the high speed went out only, its not the cap. If they all went out, then try the cap or replace the motor.

Hello dont know. No noiser than any other. Oil and Inducer? Where?

Hello still dont know. Blow through the condensate tubes? Do you know what kind of shit grows in there? Most would flush it with hot water and then put in a bit of bleach or a coil cleaning product or tablets in the cooling coil pan to inhibit growth. Here, blow on this....

Hello dont have a clue. Or go to

and get a real CO detector. Dont plan on paying $40 for it though. Honestly Hello, sometimes I wonder where you get your info? Bubba

[TURTLE]

This is Turtle.

It would be nice to see the full model number and and serial number to look up the spect sheets for it with and also describe what make you think the fan motor was bad for it not moving evough of air to not go down on high time.

TURTLE

[patliz1]

I believe it is an RGED09ERAJS serial Number BU5D707M0693 (I don't have my notes with me , but I am looking at something that I down;oaded yesterday that explains all the codes).

When the furnace used to turn on I would get a little air coming out at first than a lot of air, now it just seems that there is onl a little bit of air coming out. When I replaced the hi speed lead with the med hi speed--the fan now blows more air out and it is not going into safety mode, although I haven't been at home during the day--at night the temperature seems to be holdig constant to where I set it.

How can once test the rpm's of the motor to make sure it is bad at hi speed and not something else?

[TURTLE]

This is Turtle.

First you replaced the High Speed with the Med. High speed and it works good but what did you do with the high speed. Did you tape it off, put it on the low speed terminal, Put it On the Dead Head rack, or What ?

What I think is you put the medium high on the the first stage modulating spade and put the second stage modulation spade you put the high speed. The modulator is not shifting and staying in first stage and the new thermostat you installed you did not tie in the second stage blow speed to be activated by the thermostat and depending on the furnace IFC board to shift it for you. I can't find your type furnace in the shooting guide for the E in the first 4 digits of the model number does not show it as a Modulation Model as listed as of today. it can be a obsolete mode and not show up. Now since your going to depend on the furnace to switch the Modulation of the blower your going to have to figure out the chip switches to make it switch for you. Now you need to get the installation instruction with it and figure out to use the IFC board to switch for you.

Now if you truely switched the speed to be configurated correctly and did not change the thermostat. This still leaves you at a point of deciding that the high speed is defective or the IFC board is not shifting it correctly. Now I would say reconfigurate the IFC board for you may have install the new one during the summer and did not see the heat mess up with it not being configurated correctly or if no help change the EMC blower motor out.

TURTLE

[patliz1]

condensate

somoething

number

modulating spade

installation

correctly. Now I

[TURTLE]

This is Turtle.

If you done as above and only that as of above. Then the furnace runs on low speed for sometime and then shifts to a almost the higher speed as it use to run at. You have a high speed going out in the motor it'self. You have with a 4 speed motor multi-motors in side one shell to run one and the others being burnt up. You can have one or more speeds work fine and the others being burnt up.

Yes the motor can be changed just like the IFC card was but just a little more work.

It's hard to trouble shoot over the internet.

TURTLE