Well I had what I believe to be a "qualified, licensed technician" go over the system and he could not find a problem. The voltage checked out OK, AMP draw checked out OK, CFM (tested with some sort of electronic sensor) tested out OK. He was puzzled to why the system keeps going through motors. He said the bigger (1/2 to =BE horse) motor was pulling less AMP's than the systems max, so he doesn't feel this is a problem. It was not a dirt problem. It was not a restrictive air problem (at least with the filter).
Question for Roy: Did Mr. Trane test CFM differently and is there a more through test for the duct sizing issue? And what was the final diagnosis of your problem?
On 29 Mar 2006 07:36:31 -0800, " snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net" wrote:
Duct sizing can be an issue, but for now I am letting it go to see how it works out. What he had was better equipment to test out what the elctronic circuits were seeing/doing, as I understand it. But, it was still a real problem to trouble shoot, because it appeared to go away (at least it was quiet, though it was still not operating properly) during the first summer. Also, there was one jumper out of place because the only accurate instructions for connecting in this instance were in the pamphlet for installing the outside unit. (Whenever I have anyone installing anything in my home, I have them give me every piece of paper that comes with it.) On my 16i, which is the only Trane system I have any knowledge on, if one removed the side covers on the air handler one could get RPM by watching the blinking green light (Since it is a fault light, were I building the unit, it would be readable with covers in place). It was obvious the unit was way overspeed, regardless of the dip switch settings. After several attempts, it turned out that the cable connecting the circuit board and the blower/thermostat had a bad lead in it. Cable replaced. Problem went away. Sort of. In the summer with the A/C in use, one cannot tell the sytem is even operating. In the winter the sytem is set to off at night. So in the morning it slowly ramps up as it attempts to reach the desired temp by the desired time. If it gets behind, it blows like hell and is a bit noisy, but still not as noisy as it was when running at max speed before it was fixed. (I also have hot water baseboard heat, and if there is a big differencebetween inside actual/desired, the outside temp is below freezing, or not forecast to rise above 40, I use it to assist, or to take over the entire load. Of interest, I burned 50 gallons of oil from fill in October to fill on Feb, here in VA, and my electric bill went down a bit. from last year) If you want to labor through all that was discussed, the discussion is here:
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with the previous discussion that led up to it:
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found a great bunch of guys here. One even called my from TX to discuss it.
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