Well, it's been over 24 hours and my home is quiet and warm with the
new furnace motor. I have replaced it yesterday and everything is well
so far. I hope it stays that way.
Now another question. How does one adjust the dampers in a 2 story
house. I understand that in the winter I need to favor downstairs with
the air flow and in the summer the upstairs. I have two dampers to
control the left and right side of the house downstairs and a third
damper to control up/down distribution. I have set the bottom two to
be almost all open and the up/down one to be almost closed, which would
divert most of the air flow downstairs. After 24 hours with the new
motor and these settings the temperature is within 1 degree between
upstairs and downstairs. I am happy, but what do I do in the summer?
Just the opposite? I noticed when installing the motor that the
heating wire went to the high speed and the cooling wire went to the
slow speed on the old motor. I wired the new motor the same way, but
am wondering why is the cooling slower?
Thanks as usual, love the forum!
That sounds backwards to me. I think cooling is normally the higher
speed. See, e.g.:
(I'm not endorsing this site in particular, it's just one of the first
I found via Google which addressed the issue)
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form email@example.com.
It may have come from the factory that way. It's also possible that
somebody was home remedying it and put them back on the wrong terminals.
Another possibility is that a tech switched them as a Band-Aid solution
to high temp limit trips. The list is endless.
Heat is set to lower speed cooling higher speed, more even winter heat
and more efficient cooling and less chance of freezing the coil. ducts
cant be closed off if temp rise is higher than unit recommendations.
These are a few thing for you now to spend a week learning about.
I did post in the original thread, but I'll repeat. I got the motor
from Gainger, it cost $69 and change including the cap and taxes. The
replacement is made by Dayton and made in China (what isn't these
days), the original was a GE and assembled in Mexico. Both are 1/2 hp
1075rpm, but the Dayton is 3 speed and the GE was 4. I wired the
replacement the same, I thought only using low for the wire that used
the medium low on the old motor. I will double-check the speed again.
The way I did it originally was to go upstairs and turn the
thermostat's fan control to "on" instead of "auto" I think that may
cause the motor to run at a different speed than when the thermostat
actually calls for heat. I will re-check and make sure I am on low
speed for heating and high for cooling.
How would I make the cooling and heating use the same speed? Wire both
wires to the same winding?
The heat was wired correctly. I did originally test using fan on
function instead of heat setting. When I tested using thermostat to
call for heat (set the thermo for 80 degrees), I got the low speed
winding to energize. I tested it by disconnecting the connections
until the fan stopped. When I broke the one that stopped the fan it
was the slow one.
There is no *requirement* that heating speed be lower than cooling
speed. What is important is that you have the proper cfm per ton set up
for cooling, and that your temp rise in heating falls within the specs
(temp drop range) listed on the data plate or label in/on the furnace.
Factory default isn't necessarily what's going to be required.
I didn't doubt you for a moment, I was just clarifying because your
statement could have easily been misinterpreted as meaning that there
was some requirement for heating speed to be lower. :)
NORMALLY, the heating speed is lower, simply because the engineers
arranged for it to be. Lower face velocity and higher temp means less
draft and thus more comfort for the occupants. It is however less efficient.
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