This usually happens when the terminal is rated for bigger wire than you are using or you didn't get a good crimp. IBM stopped soldering terminals in the early 60s. We did have different crimpers for different manufacturer's terminals. They pretty much settled in on AMP tho.
That will do it. There is too much metal on the terminal to get squeezed down tight on the smaller wire.
+1 And it's even worse with a cheap butted sleave connector and that useless crimper - -
With some practice you can get a decent crimp on the insulated terminals like he has in that kit but it is very sensitive to being sure you are right in the center of the barrel. You still will not get the same uniform crimp that you get with the die style you posted
Basically just punching a divot into the side of the sleave isn't very effective - particularly if the divot is opposite the split in the sleave - - - -. If you can compress the sleave all the way around the wire you have a fighting chance
Just found another pretty decent looking crimper for low price:
You only use the divot part of that tool on the insulation. The crimp is done with the round cutouts at the end with that tool. OTOH the Klein tool electricians use does on their crimp rings use a divot type crimp but they are not a split ring.
They look interesting but I have a bunch of different kinds of crimping tools.
On 5/4/2019 10:59 PM, Clare Snyder wrote: ...
I don't either, but I just ordered one...we'll see if it'll stand up to more than one crimp cycle--unlike the HF "Greenlee" knockoff punch set that was so soft the threads simply pulled out of the die on the first attempt through nothing more than a handy box wall...
Sometimes cheap is just cheap; sometimes a low price is "inexpensive" and on rare occasions a "bargain"
We'll see which classification these fall into! :)
I never understood that. Why carry junk tools for an "emergency" when you may only have one chance to get home. Rounding off bolts, stripping out screw heads and making bad splices is not going to improve your chances of getting the job done when you need it the most.
I may have not made it very clear. I have a bag with mostly good tools that I can just grab up to take where I think I may need to do some work. In it is several good meters, soldering gun, all kinds of wrenches and screwdrivers. Some electrical tape and connectors and fuses.
My $ 30 HF set is in my truck because I never can tell where a screwdriver or wrench may be needed . I keep a kit of tools in my car that I bought at Sears many years ago for the same reason. I don;t think I will need the tools for car or truck as they do not have very many miles on them. However I might run into what my son did a few months back. His car would not even try to start. He had just had a new battery installed and drove it a few days. Then it would not try to start. He called me and when I looked at it, one of the battery clamps was not tight. If he had just about any inexpensive tool with him and knew what to look for, he could have been back on the road.
+1 When I really NEED a tool (emergency) is when I do NOT want to find out how crappy the tool is. Particularly not by having it break and skin my knuckles or crack my noggin- - -. The tools I carry in the truck are tools I TRUST to get me out of a jam - not into one!!!
Not Snap-ons or other "high-brand" stuff - but quality Mastercraft tools which have proven over the years to be reliable (stuff I buy at Canadian Tire on sale for $89 - regular price $200 oe more) and have NEVER let me down, in the shop or on the road. I had a few sets of CHEAP tools that I picked up or inherited over the years that I threw out a few years ago. I didn't even want to put them on the table for a garage sale and have someone hurt themselves with them.
Thanks. That's a price I can afford.
Andy
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