best fuel level to maintain

Well, as noted before, I wasn't convinced by their analysis having done the calculation so I kept looking and found another white paper; this one by EPA

It draws the same conclusions I did--

"Phase separation, however, generally only occurs when liquid water (as opposed to water vapor) is introduced to the fuel system. If tank vents are left open, either in the engine being operated, or at a fuel distribution station, water can enter the fuel system in the form of rain (or spillage, etc.) or through the air in the form of moisture. Also, since conventional gasoline absorbs very little water, there is often a layer of water present at the bottom of a filling station tank normally used to store conventional gasoline (water is more dense than gasoline, and will therefore sink to the bottom). Before an oxygenated gasoline is added to such a storage tank for the first time (particularly ethanol-blended fuels), this water must be purged from the tank to prevent the water from removing any ethanol from the fuel.

Since the solubility of water in both gasoline and air decreases with a decrease in temperature, water can enter a fuel system through condensation when the atmospheric temperature changes. For example, assume a tank containing conventional gasoline contains only one gallon of fuel. Assume also that it is closed while the outside temperature is 100 degrees F with a relative humidity of 100 percent. If this tank is left sealed and the temperature drops to 40 degrees F, water will likely condense on the inside of the tank, and dissolve in the fuel. In order for enough water to condense from the air to cause gasoline-water phase separation, however, there must be approximately 200 gallons of air per gallon of fuel over this temperature drop (100 to 40 degrees). Since oxygenated fuels can hold even more water than conventional gasoline, it is even more unlikely that enough water will condense from the air to cause gasoline-water phase separation."

The 200:1 ratio almost precisely duplicates my earlier estimate...I just quoted it over a differing volume and in alternate units. I did note that while I hadn't computed it, the 3.8 tsp measurement your reference used is referred to in this document but they mis-computed/mis-typed the percentage in the 0.05%; it is 0.5%.

So, anyway, the problem of phase separation in E10 of initially clean fuel in a clean tank occurring owing to moisture condensation from the air introduced alone is simply a non-issue.

Reply to
dpb
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just have the fuel pump in your gas tank die because you have run it dry too often, cost 600 bucks and up/

and if your intelligent you will keep tank mostly full

Reply to
bob haller

I replaced mine myself on my 1969 Buick pretty cheap. Have they changed that much in 47 years?

Reply to
Bill

minimum price for a aftermarket in tank pump assembly 300 to 400 bucks.

for a brand new OEM pump at least 600 bucks and often more. pumps include fuel gauge and fuel filter. the gasoline in the tank cools the pump. run the tank low or out, espically in hot weather, fries the pump.......

my 1969 impala had a fuel pump fail, a easy replacement bolted to the engine.. i think it cost 40 bucks

far cheaper to always keep the tank at least half full.

but its your money and your back, feel free to replace them as often as you want..........

Reply to
bob haller

I've replaced a few, one last year. That one was an Bosch for $142.50. They have never cost me much more than that. You might pay $600 for shop to drop the tank and replace.

Reply to
Vic Smith

Keep tank top half full. Keeps out air and possible condensation. Not as critical on a properly functioning late model, but still adviseable

Reply to
clare

The top quarter doesn't cost any more than the bottom quarter.

Reply to
clare

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