Steve, the multi-visicoty oils work but do sling a little. 30W non-detergent works fine. Most what I personally use.
Have a friend who lives on a farm. Never uses anything but old filtered motor oil from his cars, tractors or whatever. His heavily used 25 year old saw seemed to be going strong the last time I saw it.
Motor oil is a lubricant albeit lighter than bar oil which pours like molasses, but like others have said they used, transmission fluid and brake fluid are hydraulic fluids and may have lubricant properties, but I would rather have a fluid designed for pure lubrication, and like you said, motor oil gets slung off the chain faster. I'll use the real bar oil.
I have not checked it out, but have read that the Bar oil is made to break down and not harm nature. Good for the environment , where regular motor type oil is bad for the environment. If it were not for that, just about any oil would be ok .
Yes. Never hurts to have an ole pump oil can around. Squirt some "erl" on the blade and chain. Rotate the blade a few turns as you do this, wipe away "dripping" oil. It helps prevet all this "slinging" oil problem.
I've used regular motor oil many times when that is all I had on hand. Even the multi-viscosity type such as 10W40. As long as the chain is getting some sort of lubricant, it should work properly and not wear. I was told the advantage to the "bar oil" is that it has an addative to make it stick better to the chain and the bar. Whether this is true, I am not sure. You know how everyone makes products just to make more money, and bar oil is pretty much just oil, which sells for
2 or more times the cost of motor oil. But it's not going to make me bankrupt, so I buy the stuff. I really do not know if it's any better than plain motor oil. I do think it's a little thicker than 30W oil. I have always wondered why it's colored????
Got laid up, and the greenhouse is still on the list. My neighbor has just a visqueen greenhouse, and he was getting tomatoes VERY early last year. I will check, and ping you in the group. I thought I was coming Friday, but the CC&R's on the property aren't available yet. May be next week.
Not sure about the oil coloration, maybe to differentiate it because it is so thick, and may have additives that would cause failure if run in a regular crankcase. The State of Utah has two tax rates on their diesel fuel. The one for farm use is taxed a lot less, and is dyed. But if you get caught running it in a vehicle with a license plate on it, I understand it is a big fine.
Please note that most electric chainsaw manuals recommend 30W or 40W motor oil to lube the chain & bar. Regular bar & chain oil is too thick to feed the chain properly unless you pump continuously (until your thumb cramps up or falls off). The lighter weight oil (30W) may leak a bit, but your chain & bar will last a lot longer.
replying to Doug Miller, modeler4 wrote: but how is the oiler going to know the oil is getting flung off faster, won't the oil just come out at the same rate? unless you have a manual oiler.
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