Worked fine could mean most anything given the range of posts here. It could mean that it worked fine having to put both switches in the down position.
and it worked fine after
This from the pedantic poster bitching about Scott using general terms about switch reliability.
So it's OK when you use general terms like "that". Figures. Anything else you want to argue about? I admitted I missed the context of his statement, you ahole.
Really? That's what you're going with? Having to put both switches in the down position is no one's definition of a 3-way switch set-up working "fine". At least give Wade some credit that he knows how a 3-way switch is supposed to work.
I simply pointed out that Leviton devices are not always "ultra-reliable" and even couched it in the caveat that my failures were with more sophisticated devices.
That's the term that *you* used: "It should work like a 3-way switch. Did it always work like that?" All I was doing was saving myself some typing, thinking that you were smart enough to realize that my "that" and your "that" were referring to the same operational status. I guess I gave you too much credit.
Well, that you got half-way there. I guess we'll settle for that.
Switches, I think, these days are all AC-only. AC-DC probably all have an actual snap action between positions.
From UL "SNAP SWITCHES (WJQR) AC general-use switches are marked ??AC?? AC GENERAL-USE SNAP SWITCHES AC general-use snap switches are tested for the control of resistive, inductive (including electric discharge lamp) and tungsten-filament lamp loads at 120 V up to the full current rating of the switch, and for motor loads up to 80% of the amp rating of the switch, but not exceeding
2 hp."I agree this is probably Spec grade, and Leviton is reliable.
There are 36 ways to wire 2 3-way switches, 4 of which work as 3-way. Replacing 3-way switches is not that difficult, but my guess is the OP made a mistake and didn't check all 4 of the possible switch combinations. Or the originals were 20A Leviton, the original wiring was wrong and 4 combinations weren't ever checked.
Actually, no.
The original switch wiring and the first switch replacement wiring were correct as the fan circuit worked properly- turning the fan on or off from either switch.
As mentioned in an earlier post in this thread, I did check the 4 possible switch position combinations If you missed it, what I accurately reported was that the fan would turn only with both switches in the DOWN position.
That doesn't explain them working for several years unless he NEVER flipped the second switch - - - -possible I GUESS - but rather improbable.
Sounds like 0ne traveller is open - either bad wire - one bad switch, or bad connection. One chance in about 100000 both switches are bad. I'd be susp[icious one wire is not making contact ina back-stabbed switch or one wire is broken where it connects to the screw - OR a switch has failed.
I swung by the local Home Depot, increased their gross take for today by $11 and change- and headed on home with two new 3-way switches.
Installed them both and all is fine. Fan is working normally again- can turn it on or off from either switch.
I had pulled and replaced the A switch first and after I did, the fan worked properly. Switch A was in fact the culprit. There is continuity from the common to only one of the traveler terminals.
I considered leaving the properly-functioning B switch in place and returning the second one to get five bucks back- but I figured WTH, in for a dime, in for a dollar and swapped it out.
It still remains a mystery why I've had two switch failures in a little-used circuit. I'll report back in a few years and let y'all know how these switches are doing;-)
Thanks for all the help and suggestions!
I would throw the good one in my switch stash as a spare.
It might actually be interesting to drill out the rivets and see what's wrong with the bad one.
Perhaps consider exercising the switches more often. Corrosion might be playing a role here. As Greg said, an internal visual might be a fun way to spend a few minutes.
BTW...not too many people do it, but it is often suggested that you exercise all of the breakers in your panel, including the main, annually.
A Sunday evening in mid winter - especially if Monday is a holiday - is
*not* the best time to exercise the main breaker. DAMHIKT
That's what I would do, take a look inside and see if there is any evidence of why it failed.
On Thu, 17 Jun 2021 12:45:43 -0400, Wade Garrett posted for all of us to digest...
Thanks Wade, good news! We like to hear of a resolution.
I was going to refer you to this site:
I know it's shocking but ya gotta keep the juice flowing.
Good idea. My young grandson likes to take stuff apart. Next time he visits, we'll do that.
Change both switches, but be mindful of the wires on the screw terminals. Take off one wire at a time and put it on the new 3-way switch before removing the next wire. The most important wire connections to get correct are the ones on the dark or red terminals. One will be LOAD and the other will be LINE. See my blog post for helpful 3-way switch changing information and various 3-way wiring diagrams:
Last time I changed one I did it wrong. The new one had terminals in exactly the same locations as the old one so I connected the wires the same.
When it didn't work i looked closer and found though the terminals were in the same location, a different one was the traveler.
I'm not sure if you are having trouble keeping up or if you just wanted an excuse to post a link to your blog. I assume that you make money with each visit.
Wade has already solved the problem and posted that he changed the switches 3 days before your post.
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