That is right. When you switch the neutral it has to also switch all ungrounded poles simultaniously.
I have to admit this thread has wandered around so much I am not sure I responded to the right post. I was just referring to the idea that transfer equipment does/does not switch the neutral and when that was appropriate.
Yes, but that's not relevant to the apparent situation. Essentially he has portions of a single circuit switched by what is effectively two separate transfer switches that are supposed to operate in parallel (neutral on one transfer switch and two hots on another transfer switch).
Pete C.
I have to reapeat my previous post since your response seemed unrelated.
"I doubt you would be allowed to switch a neutral on an independant device."
The manufacturers make a very similar product.
I backfeed my paned through a breaker. The backfeed breaker is adjacent to the main breaker. I created a sliding mechanism that makes it impossible to turn on both breakers at the same time. Works, prevents accidental feedback. No messing around with feedback cable. Easy as 1-2-3:
It's not even worth it anymore.
Illegal in some jurisdictions.
It all depends on the inspector. If it is effective why would they care. There is a lot of lesser junk out there with a NRTL sticker. Bear in mind U/L listed the old style aluminum wire, FP breakers, SqD AFCIs. and virtually every recalled appliance that bursts into flames or electrocutes the user.
Yes, thoughfully was tongue in cheek and should have been "thoughtfully".
That may be true, but the OEM's have UL Listings for their equipment and your system doesn't. Yours won't pass anywhere that UL Listed Equipment is required by local building codes.
Me
If it works for you then use it , some people are hung up on UL as if it was a GOD.
Sure, there's nothing the god of UL couldn't forgive you for.
I found the guys really helpful>
They helped me.
Pete C. wrote:
IMHO, many of the safety regulations of the NEC are not directed at the "competent" person, but at the incompetent people that follow afterwards
If there was no NEC regulations there may not be any "competent" people or better yet no definition of "competent". Rules are just a collection of corrections to previous mistakes.
not directed at the
that follow afterwards
You can get along without a transfer switch as long as you never make a mistake, but it only takes one mistake to cause you to wish you had installed one.
I ran a home gen for several years without a transfer switch - I had the gen cord (with male plug) wired into a spare two-pole breaker and an air-conditioner type disconnect in the garage in line with the cord so that the possibility of a 'suicide cable' configuration was diminished. I knew what to throw/connect/disconnect when and everything worked fine... I was confident with my knowledge and ability.
Well, during one power outage I did something in the wrong sequence and all it did was trip the breaker on my generator, but it scared me *big time*. I immediately bought a new one of these
Check the house grounding.
doing it (I have a new generator and new uninstalled transfer switch) so sa ve your flames. I plan on installing my transfer switch when I get some tim e in the next month or two.I read a post suggesting that in a power outage, you could flip your main breaker off to prevent anything going to the line s and killing a line worker, and use a suicide cord from your generator to you clothes dryer outlet (240 vac) and then your main panel would serve as your switch for what circuits are using the generator--and that this would power both 240 and 120 outlets.As dangerous as this is, is this even possib le?
Yes, it can and has been done (by me) in an emergency. Whether you feed th e 240V back thru the dryer cord outlet or directly tap in at the breaker bo x, either way you must open the main circuit breaker to disconnect your hou se from the mains to avoid electrocuting a worker, or heavily overloading y our generator trying to feed your entire neighborhood.
When finished my wiring will have a breaker in the panel for just this purpose . Out here in the woods we can be left without power for days if we get another bad ice storm . Also part of the reason we heat with wood ...
I hope the breaker includes a lockout slide so it and the main breaker cannot be closed at the same time and it's connected to an inlet so that it's to code. It's not hard or expensive to do it right.
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