At what point do you go from "furring a wall" to "building a wall"?

[MiamiCuse]

Along my concrete block walls, I have 1/2" furring strips every 16", then sheetrocks are attached to the furring strips. The furring strips make it possible for 1/2" electrical conduits and copper pipes to run across or up and down the walls.

In some cases I have 3/4" pipes or electrical conduits, so I go with 3/4" furring strips.

In some cases in a shower area, I have shower valves that sticks out further and it needs 1.5" of space. Now, I can attach 2x2 or 2x4 turned on it's face to the concrete wall and furr it out this way. Or may be at 1.5" I might as well build a real wall butt up against the concrete wall, with it's own top and bottom plates.

At what depth do you think it crosses the threshold form using furring strips to a real wall?

Thanks in advance,

MC

[Mark]

I think once I get to something like attaching a shower valve, which implies shower walls of tile or something heavier than just drywall, I'd go with framing out a full 2x4 wall for the strength and stability. Not knowing where you are located, the added space for insulation might be a benefit as well.

[HerHusband]

I would consider anything up to 1X material to be furring. Once I have bought a 2x4, I might as well turn it on edge and use it as actual studs. You'll have more room for pipes, wires, etc., and can add more insulation if needed.

Also, I would be a little concerned about piercing wires and pipes run in a

3/4" or less furred space when hanging drywall, a picture, shelves, etc. In a normal stud wall the wires/pipes are set back far enough that a 1- 1/2" screw wouldn't reach them, or you install metal protector plates if they are close to the face of the stud. Just something to think about.

Anthony

[terry]

Must be a climate zone with no chance of freezing through the 'outside' concret block wall? Here we would not put water pipes in close proximity to a cold outside wall, unless that wall was several feet below ground. Also if the living are is heated any chance of condensation on the cool block wall behind the sheetrock?

[Lp1331 1p1331]

Several have asked where the OP is located. Just a WAG here, uhhh-- maybe Miami??

[Colbyt]

Don't have a clue what you are doing or where.

Here if you finish a basement to code, you build stud walls and insulate them.

I personally think it is a good rule.

[MiamiCuse]

You are right, I am in Miami, Florida.

[MiamiCuse]

I am in south Florida so freezing is not a concern, I do have a fireplace but have never used it, but the last arctic blast we had this month did go down to 34 degrees and it was cold so we did have the heat on for about two days, first time we turned it on in three years.

Yes I am installing metal protector in front of all pipes and conduits.

Thanks

[Jim Elbrecht]

Since we're outing you. Is the last 1/2 of your tag what I have been reading it as for years?

Other than to refer to an Orangeman, I've only seen the word once in a short story by Tim O'Brien, but it was used in a derogatory sense & I can't imagine why you'd use it. OTOH- you're a long way from Syracuse.

Inquiring mind. . . Jim

[MiamiCuse]

well, let's just say I am a long way for a good reason LOL.

[MiamiCuse]

That's what I am wrestling with. I do have metal protector plates, but if I go with the full 2x4, on both sides, then my shower shrinks by two inches.

[Robert Allison]

To answer your question, if you are applying anything to an existing wall you are "furring out". A real wall will stand by itself and is built as a standalone product.

Robert Allison