Why? Is there some reason you think it would not be acceptable to attach a 16A load to a 30A circuit?
Residential electrical supply in the US and Canada hasn't been 110/220 for many years -- it's 120/240 and has been for a long, long time. Doesn't stop people from referring to it as 110 and 220, obviously, but that's not what it is.
My point was this: the OP referred to installation instructions that said (according to his post) to connect the equipment to a 220V circuit. Maybe that was just a mistake on the part of the OP and the instructions really said
240V, or maybe they really said 220V like he said -- and if *that* is the case, that the manufacturer really said 220 and not 240, it's quite possible that the rated output of the heaters is based on their output at 220, and not at the 240 that the OP certainly has in his house. And the distinction is important because if these heaters were rated at 240V, then they can both go on the same 20A circuit -- but if they were rated at 220V they cannot.Wrong.
Take the case of a resistance heater that emits 2000 watts at 220V. It draws
2000 watts / 220 volts = 9.09 amps. Now calculate the resistance: 220 volts / 9.09 amps = 24.2 ohms.Note that the resistance is a physical property of the heating element, that does not change no matter what voltage is applied to it.
Now push 240V across that same 24.2 ohm resistance.
240 volts / 24.2 ohms = 9.92 amps.A similar calculation applies to the 1500 watt heater.
Isn't that exactly the opposite of what you said in the previous paragraph?
Maybe you're right -- but assuming that, without proof, could be dangerous. Which is why I cautioned the OP to check the rating plate to see whether the heaters were rated at 220V or 240V.
Simply knowing what voltage they're rated at is sufficient.