I think I just need to put in a new T and be done with it. But for now the tank is installed, pressured at 38psi, and apparently functioning well. Can't tell you how much I appreciate all the help from you and the other group folks.
Mike
done with it. But for now the tank is installed, pressured at 38psi, and apparently functioning well. Can't tell you how much I appreciate all the help from you and the other group folks.
Nice to hear a good word, you're welcome.
ing from the tank to the house. And when the pressure switch kicks in at 52 . I guess I'm looking at the wrong gauge. The pressure tank was delivered w ith 35psi. If I just leave it, will I be ok? Thanks.
e pressure switch does that.
ers work well.
xtures as 'dpb' said.
way too high. You need to adjust the pressure switch.
oves the 20lb range up/down to get the cut-in/out where you want it. If yo u don't have a 20lb difference between cutin/out then the shorter screw(s) are used to adjust that.
And if one is leery of screwing with the pressure switch a new, preset one is cheap.
Harry K
On 08/03/2014 7:18 PM, Michael Wilson wrote: ...
Be my recommendation -- the gauge doesn't make any difference to the operation, obviously, but it is nice to have the visible evidence. It's not at all unusual for them to fail with time so not at all unexpected need another. The small diameter nipple tends to clog as well...
Glad to hear you're in business again...
so, one would not want to turn an adjustment screw, but they wouldn't mind changing the entire pressure switch? sounds like a professional to me - a professional who would be able to retire early.
I thought of that afterward. The answer is to do as I did last time I had to change mine. I wired it in with a length of romex (could have used exte nsion cord) on a plug so I didn't have to screw with the hardwire problem. I have to occasionally pull the switch to clean out the riser pipe.
Harry K
it also seems to be more work than just doing it right.
Really? Uplug, unscrew the switch do whatever and then reverse the procedure.
Pull cover, remove three leads from terminals. Now work the whire that is in conduit through that 90" el. on side of the switch...
I'll call you next time it needs doing and you can demonstrate.
Harry K
Oops forgot to explain why I didn't just undo the conduit inside the box. That was the main reason I changed it. that fitting was one I had never se en before. It came down right angle into the box with one of those access covers used to work the wires around the 90 degree. The fastener in the box was a male that screwed into a female on the fitting. Fit almost flush and had two little 't*ts' to use a screwdriver on. One was busted, the other i n a position I couldn't get at. I finally just cut the conduit and wire, re moved the switch and put it on a plug.
Then there is the problem that all that screwing around is done on the knee s and at 80 that is not a position I like. No more knee work for me on tha t problem.
Harry K
yeah, that won't be necessary. I just do it the right way and don't have to worry about a bunch of dangling wires. But I think you were arguing with me agreeing with you (not sure).
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