For some reason, when I use a recipricating saw to cut something, I
always had trouble at the end of the cutting.
Say a PVC pipe that is already in the ground and I made a trench to
expose it. The pipe is 2" in diameter, I exposed enough of the soil
to make sure the blade when fully extended would not cut into some
stones or pebbles or roots. I start the cut, no problem, it's ripping
through real nice and smooth, but when I am 75% of my way through, the
pipe and saw started shaking and vibrating violently to make the cut
Now this is probably because the enough of the pipe has been cut so it
no longer is "biting" onto the blade hard enough so the blade wanders?
Is it because I am not holding it tightly enough?
Or is this related to the quality of the saw?
Ot should I always cut something from both directions - instead of
starting a cut and carry it all the way through, cut it half way then
start the cut from the opposing side and meet in the middle?
On Nov 17, 11:50 am, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
One reason for the bucking could be binding. As you put pressure on
the pipe while cutting, you are closing the kerf causing the pipe to
grab the blade.
Try bracing or wedging the pipe so it doesn't bind.
You need to brace at least one "end" of the pipe with something. Just holding
the pipe and pulling it hard against the foot of the saw might do it. Or, a
brick or board slipped under the pipe so you can push down firmly as you cut.
On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 08:50:59 -0800 (PST), email@example.com wrote:
Dan is right. When you are cutting and putting pressure into the cut
it tends to close the kerf and pinch the blade. The trick is to brace
the material such as to hold the kerf open. In the case of a pipe in
the ground I would drive a stake in on the side opposite of the cut
and wedge the pipe over some while you are doing it to stress it the
other way. When you cut the kerf will open.
Actually I prefer a cable saw for cutting a pipe in the ground. It is
almost as fast as the sawzall, no power required and you don't have
these problems. Step on it with your foot to stabilize it.
You can even do it with the nylon string you use for site layout.
On Nov 17, 10:50 am, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
You are not using the latest design SawzAll. These have a different
mechanism from most others on the market. The net effect is a lot less
recoil, hence smoother cutting with reduced shaking of the work piece.
Read the blurb about it on the MIlwaukee web site for more detail.
From personal experience, I upgraded to the 13 Amp model from the
older 10 Amp and have used it extensively in a major home rehab. Even
one handed cuts were possible on overhead 2 x 10's with little kick
back. Well worth the extra $$ IMO.
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