In the process of re-tiling my walk-in shower, I removed the old
drywall about 6 feet up the wall (that's as far up as the old tile
extended) and replaced it with DuRock cement board. I've got the tile
all set, except for the top 2 or 3 rows. I'm wondering how to seal
that 1/8" gap between the top of the new DuRock and the bottom of the
old drywall. There's not only a gap between them, but they are also
slightly different thicknesses. So, if I wanted to use slightly taller
bullnose tiles for the very top row, which would extend them past that
joint, the tiles wouldn't set flush because of the differences in
thicknesses of the drywall & DuRock. Should I put an extra thick layer
of Mastic in and around the joint and feather it out like you do with
drywall joint compound, let it dry and try to sand it to smooth it out?
Or maybe just use drywall compound itself and Mastic over it once it's
dried and sanded?
So you'll have tiles only up to six feet? I would go all the way up to (
and tile also) the ceiling. Wondering how high is your shower head. The
pipe on mine comes out of the wall at 6' 6" and nobody in the family is
Anyway, don't you think that moisture will get to the area left with
Sheetrock and without tiles?
The different thickness between sheet rock and durock and that 1/8" gap
are the consequence of poor design in my view. No offense meant, but I
would reconsider those choices.
My shower head also comes out of the wall at about the 6'6" mark. But
the original tiles only go up to about 6', and the original drywall
above it has never had a problem with moisture. It has several coats
of oil-based enamel and that's kept it sealed well.
I don't want to run the tiles all the way up because based on the
shower's FIRST 40 plus years of service it just isn't necessary. I
live in the dry desert Southwest.....maybe that's a factor in moisture
not lingering on the drywall above the tile line.
But back to my original question......what would be the best way to
smooth out the joint between the original drywall and the new
I did a similar project in my house, though the durock and the
sheetrock were the same thickness. A detail you left out: which one is
thicker in your bathroom? If the durock is thicker, I guess I'd just
keep tiling up and use some extra mastic behind the tiles at the top,
and then seal off the top of the mastic with grout-colored caulk. If
the sheetrock is thicker, then I am not so sure.
You should have taken this into account before you started. Ya think?
Tile up *to* the sheetrock with a piece of surface bullnose without
attempting to overlap it. Run a bead of silicone. Makin' the best of a
if you have a 1/16 gap, i would use a trowel to apply the glue on the
drywall with notches 1/16 less deep than the trowel you used on the cement
board so the glue surface is the same, and put the top layer of tile so it
overlaps the drywall. bead of caulk to seal the top edge when done.
feather it out >> like you do with drywall joint compound, let it dry and try to
sand it to smooth it out?
If the drywall is 1/16" thicker then the durock just sand the drywall
down a bit with a palm sander to even out the transition. Apply some
mastic to the joint and lay some mesh tape over that to make a stronger
joint. Smooth a bit more mastic over the tape and let it dry.
Just decide before hand how far up you want the tile to go over the
existing drywall, a couple of inches maybe is enough. If you go to far
with the sander you will have to cover that up with paint or drywall
compound if it is bad.
This isn't nearly as bad as everyone is making it out to be.
IMHO It's a shitty idea. He'll see. He deserves the mess it will be
anyway. He had to have seen the potential problem before he started and
chose to ignore it.
Simple way is to do as I said. Which he could have planned for. Cut a
bullnose tile to fit up to the transition and forget about lapping it.
The OP's a moron.
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