Vot to do with 100 watt bulbs after replacing with CFs?
Maybe a sauna, with a power strip with bulb-to-prong converters and Herbach and Rademan (800) 848-8001
A 4'x4'x8' room with a small window and 15 cfm of airflow has a thermal conductance of about 15+144ft^2/Rv, and the ASHRAE HOF says a warm radiant barrier with e = 0.05 and a large air space has a thermal resistance of about US R3. With "R6.5" 1" double-foil polyiso board walls, (R12.5, counting foils), the room would have a conductance of 15+144/12.5 = 26.5 Btu/h-F, so we could keep it 150 F in a 70 F room with (150-70)26.5 = 2120 Btu/h, ie 621 watts, eg 70 watts from 1 person plus 551 from 6 100W bulbs.
If a person at rest in a 70 F room makes 155 Btu/h of latent heat, ie evaporates 0.155 lb/h of water, and 15 cfm of fresh air (an ASHRAE spec) flows through the room and the humidity ratio outside the room wo = 0.00787 pounds of water vapor per pound of dry air (70 F at 50% RH) and 1 ft^3 of air weighs 0.075 lb, 60x15x0.075(wo-wi) = 0.155 lb/h makes wi = 0.0102, with a vapor pressure Pi = 29.921/(1+0.62198/wi) = 0.481 "Hg inside the room.
At 150 F and 100% RH, P150 = e^(17.863-9621/(150+460)) = 8.09 "Hg, with a Clausius-Clapeyron approximation, and Pi/P150 = 0.06, so we might turn on a 50 cfm fan if the room RH ever rises to 6%. (With no extra moisture, it would be 100x0.374/8.09 = 0.046, ie 4.6%.) I wouldn't hesitate to turn on the fan at a higher RH, since people can safely sweat up to 4 lb/h, and with more humidity, the room will feel equally hot at a lower air temp with less heating energy. At 30% RH, the ASHRAE 55-2004 comfort standard predicts that we can lower the air temp to 142.3 F... 50% allows a 136.3 F air temp.
Nick