I nursed an RCA color TV for 25 years until adjustments could no longer correct the ever-enlarging image and the ever decreasing color saturation. It was still working when I curbed it. The difference between old CRT TV's and equal sized LCD/LED units is pretty impressive. So is the picture.
-- Bobby G.
On the flip side, I was always amazed how easily PC's could be repaired - at least in the beginning. No video? Swap out a board! It's all a trade off. I agree with you. People won't pay what it's worth in time to have something diagnosed and repaired when that cost is perhaps half to three-quarters the price of a newer (and often better) model. I gave up fixing PC's for friends for that reason. They're grateful right after you restore megabytes of precious data - but not for very long after that. )-: Sort of "I know you saved my life last week, but what have you done for me lately?"
-- Bobby G.
A kill a watt measures power factor to get the true watts. Unless you measure the volts and amps with an oscilloscope and do the calculations, an amp meter is useless. An interesting fact, my old fridge has .59 pf where my newer one is close to 1. The kill a watt also calculates total on time for the kwh.
Nothing was mentioned of size of freezer. You can buy a moderate sized one cheap, and I would recommend the chest.
Greg
Did you buy LCD or Plasma? LCDs use about the same amount of power or slightly more for same size screen.
I had a 45" Mitsubishi RPTV that lasted me for 12 years that I replaced 2 years ago with a 50" Panasonic Plasma. The Panny uses 400 watts, as compared to the Mits that used 210 watts.
Thanks for the info Bobby. I'll look into it.
Will do and thank you !!!
Actually yes, one or two but I have no idea how much longer they'll stay in business. Maybe they sell the old repaired units to make a living???? I was willing to give my old heavy Sony away for free but they would have to drive 5 miles to get it and they said no thanks. It ended up in the garbage truck... kinda sad to see that but I wasn't willing to pay to have it fixed (assuming it was fixable).
Samsung model LN40D630 which I believe is a LCD. It had a sticker that based on its assumptions claimed to use about $20/yr electricity. I don't really know the real cost yet till I get the recommended equipment to measure it's real draw.
I agree. If you have HD programming, it even gets better on the same LCD/LED tv.
For inductive loads like motors, I wouldn't trust those consumer-grade "kill-o-watt" meters any further than I could throw them. They won't be measuring the actual power being used the same way that your utility power meter does.
For electric baseboard heaters, incandescent lights, toasters, electric stoves, kettles, boilers, electric hot-water heaters - the kill-o-watt meter will work ok.
For inductive loads like compressors (fridge, air conditioner, furnace fan) and especially anything with a switching power supply like your desktop computer, TV, CFL or any other fluorescent lights - forget it.
Wrong, it computes actual power. PF.
Greg
It's a damn good thing the hot is seperated from the neutral. If they were connected you'd have a short. As to measuring only the instantaneous current, why would you want to do that? To figure out the electricity cost of the refrigerator you need to measure it over a reasonable period, ie a few days. That way you'll see defrost cycles, start-ups, etc. And the obvious problem with any current measurement using an amp meter is that it doesn't take into account power factor.
I can feel the energy they take when I walk by them in the store, or just put your hand on top. Led types run the coolest.
Greg
Hi, I think LCD uses lot less power than Plasma. We have 62 in. Panny Plasma for better pictures, specially black is real black. Plasma panel generates quite a bit of heat. They have built-in fans for that. Hope my next set will be organic LED panel.
You may stand a better chance of getting a part for a 38-year old freezer than for a five-year old one!
The older freezer has fewer parts, none of which are expensive circuit boards.
Thanks to all who answered. I forgot that the Kill-a-Watt meter, which I have, did cumulative watt-hours and it also give the number of hours that the data was collected. So, I put it on yesterday afternoon. After 17 hours, it was about 2KWH. We pay 11 cents per KWH. I'll keep you all posted on the final results.
The LED LCDs are very good on energy. I have a friend with a 47" LCD, not LED. If you stand 1 foot in front of it, you can feel the heat radiating from it. On my 47" LED LCD, you feed no heat anywhere. For the fun of it, I will put the Kill-A-Watt on it and see the results. But it will have to wait because Kill-A-Watt is now on the 38 year freezer (other thread).
saturation.
Two exceptions. I now see how many actors/actresses have bad skin, teeth and plastic surgery scars. When watching wildlife videos reveals how even the most powerful of the beasts are plagued with insects. It's distracting to watch all the little black dots crawling around on their heads that I never noticed before.
-- Bobby G.
Finally got all results.
Old fridge 3kwh per day, 11 amps defrost, 3.5 amp compressor, .59 pf, 250 watts compressor
90's fridge 1.4 kwh per day 3.6 amps defrost, 2 amp compressor, .8 pf.,200 watts compressor.Looks like the old one needs better insulation, but the defrost is sucking power. I don't have any switch for door heater on the old one, and not sure if it has a door heater. Even though I like the old fridge, maybe I should watch craigs list. Got somewhat smaller fridge for my sister last fall. $125 one year old, nice unit. I should also look into rebate, and I don't want to pay for freon removal.
Greg
I, too got results of measuring the 38 year old freezer. Over 64 hours of use, it averaged 2.72KWH per day. The room ambient has been pretty much a constant 68-70 degrees during the measurement period. In the summer I would probably be about 8 to 10 degrees warmer. At the $0.11/KWH, that's $0.30/day or $109.10/year. BTW, my electricity charge is probably going to go up in the next few months ... there is a case presently under review. Anyway, even if I save $50/year, it would take a whole lot of years to pay for a replacement. Interesting.
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