The O.D. of 3" Schedule 40 is exactly 3.5". So you would literally be
cutting the plate in half. If you want to avoid that, you could
transition to a short stretch of 3" copper DWV for the plate
penetration, that has an O.D. of 3.125".
You could also allow the pipe to stick out of the half wall a bit,
which would be hidden behind the cabinets. If you can adapt your
cabinet construction, you could make the sink base 1" shallower to
compensate. And if your cabinets don't have an integral toe kick but
sit on site-built platform, then you could frame your 2x4 wall with a
2x6 bottom plate, and adapt the site-built platform appropriately.
Hope this helps,
I hadn't thought of a copper penetration; that's a good idea, but I think
I'm just going to go ahead with a 2x6 wall to avoid anything stupid.
Many have pointed out that since the wall isn't load bearing it wouldn't
really matter if the plate is cut in half, but I'm thinking that if I
want to do it right, it should be 2x6. I'm going to sell the house.
Don't want to create problems.
Re: asbestos, how will you handle putting holes in the old floor,
e.g. for the 3" drain pipe?
As to the underlayment, I don't really have an opinion, but I think
the principle concern should be the compressability of the layers
between the bottom plate and subfloor. If you are going to use
threaded rod to put the half wall in compression, then perhaps it is
better to put plate on the vinyl and just let it compress. If you
aren't, perhaps it is better to run the plywood under the plate, so
the vinyl will compress less. But I don't really know.
BTW, my sheet goods installer recommended 3/8" underlayment, but I
suppose that it may depend on the smoothness of the existing floor.
I hate to admit it, but I honestly hadn't thought of that. Cutting one
hole should be safer than tearing up nearly 400 square feet of tile! I'll
have to think about that. I have the safety equipment (asbestos rated
filter mask, gloves, etc.), but I don't want dust getting all over the
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