I'm not following why it's a problem to plug a 15 amp device into a 50 amp circuit, assuming they are both, say 220volts. How is it any different then plugging a cell phone charger into a 15amp 120v circuit?
I don't see that as a problem either. Maybe in some devices that do not have any internal protection it could. The devices plugged in should have their own fuses/breakers for their own protection. The main breaker is to protect the wiring.
Hmm, I'd say load and wiring. 50Amp breaker can't protect 15Amp deivce most likely.
If the original was 277V and they connect a 240V rated heater to it, the heater will run at higher power and may overheat.
It's not the job of the breaker to protect the load. The job of the breaker is to protect the wiring and outlets (from burning). You don't want 50A passing through a 15A outlet. AFAIK, the only exception to outlets matching the wiring are with 15A outlets on 20A circuits. Even there, 15A outlets are rated for 20A (pass through).
Actually the breaker does also protect the load. Ask the manufacturer or UL if you put a 50A plug on 15A rated air conditioner and connect it to a 50A circuit.
I was thinking the other way, 277 heater on 240v. It is unlikely anyone would have 277v available anywhere but a heavy industrial complex or large office building.
Have you seen air conditioners plugged into 50A circuits? I didn't think so.
Greenhouse heater, not necessarily a small greenhouse, could be a big farm with 480/3. If the original heater was a 277 rated unit operated on
277 then installing a 240 rated heater on that circuit would be a problem. If the original heater was a 277 rated unit operated on 240 it would have been running at less than full power and a new 240 rated unit operating on 240 would perform better. The OP needs to figure out what they really have both for power and for the heater.
I guess we need more info from the OP.
I'm still waiting for the day when they can make an outlet with only ONE blade! Three seems excessive on any outlet, regardless if it's 120,
220, 480, or any other voltage. The ground is worthless and there should be a way to eliminate the neutral. Just supply the hot wire and eliminate the rest. Lets simplify America and stop using all that excess wire.
Yes, actually, I have. I did so, once. No, thinking about it, twice. Would you like to hear the details?
I'll remain neutral on this idea.
I would.
Twenty or so years ago, I heard of apartment complex that was pitching out a load of old 220 VAC air conditioners. I asked, and was given them. Hauled a bunch, and stored them behind a friend's house. Find out these don't sell very well. That summer was hot, and humid. A couple of the LDS missionaries were really miserable in the heat. I tapped a wire off their 50 amp range socket, to power the wall AC which I put in the window. Ran a 14-2 WG wire from his range socket, and put the necessary socket on the end of that. Did a similar thing for another friend, who was not LDS. I'm sure it's not to code, but it did make for some more comfortable people. These have long since been taken apart, and you can't prove a thing!
Hi again many of you made comment about rating and protection safety factors
so on and so on. Main reason for circuit breaker or fuses in Electrical panel is to protect
property installation, it is not for you product or your device that you are plug-in',
that is miss conception. Your devices that you are plug-in in supposedly have his on protection
but yes lot of them don't come with its own protection so the circuit breaker or fuse is doing
two jobs protecting installation property and your device what ever that maybe.
Biggest problems with plug-in that usually something comes loose from ware out or simple
it was not made right, when wires become loose in or on plug ins it will generate heat
even so it may work okay until start to burn, if person grab for the plug and it is warm there
is problem, which by most people ignored "big mistake"? If plug is warm in some cases
hot it is either overloaded or something is loose that should be taking care of.
Doing my life time in field service on many times I was force to demand from
Costumer to act and take action either have me make fix it or get there own electricians
to do it. One should also take in consideration the length of wire/cable is going to use
example if you have 15amp. Circuit and you add 100 feet of cable that is also rated for 15 amps.
that line will start to warm up and you will have voltage drop on the line.
If you running some type of motor depend on motor LRA it may not even start up,
you may need larger rating of cable/cord perhaps 20amp rating.
The rules applyies to all application regardless what voltage are you using.
Hi, My favourite is Hubbel. Heavy stuff....
On 10/31/2013 10:36 AM, Pavel314 wrote: ...
Yes. There's the 20A/15A rating differences as well as to prevent inadvertent use in wrong voltage circuit plus ensuring polarity for the cases where it matters, the twist-lock types are for applications like overhead outlet where there needs to be a mechanical connection to keep in socket, etc., etc., etc., ...
While there are some duplications/redundancies, much of that is for historical reasons as later standardization became more rigorous.
They make lighter stuff too.
Reguire an 8-foot ground rod for each appliance (even a clock or nightlight), and use that for neutral. Then you can have one-blade outlets.
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