regular maintenance

Definitely change oil at the end of the season so it is stored with clean oil. The full of fuel or empty is a debate that's been around a while. What it boils down to it that older machines with metal fuel tanks tend to collect quite a bit of condensation when not full of fuel. So stabilize and fill those to the top. Newer equipment generally has plastic tanks and don't have that problem so for them you should probably put in a small amount of stabilizer and run it out of fuel. Gas cans should be stored full, stabilized and sealed up tight or just empty them into you car and get fresh fuel in the spring. Filters and plug doesn't really matter when but since you're doing the oil at the end of the season it makes sense to do that stuff while you're waiting for the oil to drain completely. Don't forget to hit all the grease fittings with the grease gun while you're at it.

Just thought I'd throw this out there regarding storage and fuel. The primary problem is water. Long term storage of fuel in tank, be it metal or plastic, that's not full will develop some condensation over and over again. An empty tank will do the same thing, just no fuel to mix with. In both cases, the water settles to the bottom of the tank.

The secondary problem is breakdown of the gasoline. A few months is okay for storage. Beyond that, some form of gas additive is needed to slow the process down.

In summary, add "dry gas" additive, fill the tank to full. No matter the gas tank material. Dave

I agree for tractors and most equipment but with 2-cycle equipment, I see fewer problems when stored with the tanks empty.

Just do regular maintenance and start it up a couple times a month and let it warm up. No need for storage tactics.

Is "dry gas" or similar additive suggested use with 2 cycle engines, no. Dave

Stabil (which is what the op mentioned) is recommended for use with