'Tis why I said it was "moot". But, you still haven't answered, as to my
Is the deck screwed together, so that it could be partially disassembled,
in order to grind out the stump?
Is the stump situated in a position, so that were you to remove it, you
would be jeopardizing the integrity of the deck?
Yup, was no reason to explain. "Manure occurs." ;)
Can a storm be officially designated as a tornado without touching down at
The decking is screwed on but the joists are nailed. Taking the decking off
woudl get me better access for drilling, but not allow a grinder. ALso
withthe grinder - my house sits significantly above the street and alley.
There is not ramp, driveway or hill to roll anything up - only stairs and
retaining walls, so it woudl be difficult to get any type of serious grinder
I have a picture, its not a great one, but if it possible to upload to this
site and someone can tutor me how to do it, I would get it up for viewing.
Message posted via HomeKB.com
Understood. Still, having as much access to the stump as possible will
help, no matter the method you choose.
"Serious" grinders are self propelled. =)
As this isn't a binary group, it's best to not attach it to a message.
Uploading it to one of the miriad of free web sites, and then posting the
link to the pic here, would be the best way to go. If you're unsure where
to look for one, entering "free image hosting" in your favorite search
engine should get you started.
-If you're too open-minded, your brains will fall out.
Tree AND Internet knowledge. You people are amazing!
Here's the link
As it is now dark when I leave for work as well as when I get home, I wasn't
able to get a good daylight picture of the stump. It is deceiving, but there
is about 8 inches between the top of the stump and the bottom of the deck.
And the stump is about halfway under the deck. There is about a three foot
cantilever, so the stump is a good distance away fromt the footing.
What you see is about 5 weeks growth.
What kind of Salix was this, again? I'm not sure you said. If you did, I
can't find it. =(
If it were me, I think I'd still opt for removing the section of the deck
that's over the stump, and remove it (the stump) properly (grinding). If
you're careful, you shouldn't damage any of the joists, when
A piece of motorway and piece of dual carriage way are enjoying a drink in
Nice picture posting. If it were me I would probably pick off all of the
new growth as it buds out of the stump until it finally gives up. This
would mean doing it often. The idea is to not let it get this big, which is
replenishing the roots with its sunlight generated food.
I know that this comment is about different plants, but I do this for big
old multiflora stumps that I cut down and also wild grape vines. Both of
these persist and I keep at them until they give up and rot out after a
couple of years. If I had this problem I would use the same approach and
see how it goes, expecting it to work eventually.
I found this:
the stump can be killed as follows: Bore holes at a slanting angle
around the top of the stump. The holes should be about one and one-half
inches in diameter and from eight to ten inches deep. Fill them with
salt peter (nitrate of potash) or a commercial stump-killing product.
The material will spread through the stump and prevent sucker growth
from appearing. If the stump has green foliage growth on it now, you can
apply a Blackberry Vine or Brush Killer to the foliage as a first step.
Be sure this material does not touch any desirable vegetation, except
the plant suckers you are trying to destroy. Read and follow label
Electric drill with a 1" auger bit. Willow is a soft wood anyway. I've
drilled 1" holes in a 36" dia. Elm stump with a Ryobi 18 volt cordless.
I had to change the batteries more than usual, but it worked.
You can get a "speed-bore" bit at HD or Lowe's or any hardware store for
1 1/2". They work great in a 1/2" drill motor. If all you have is a 3/8"
variable speed drill motor, begin by using a slower speed, then increase
speed as you go deeper.
BTW, since the post has returned an abundance of votes for using
RoundUp, why not save yourself a lot of money and use a product called,
"Remuda", from Monterey Lawn & Garden. Here in San Diego, RoundUp costs
$90 a gallon; Remuda costs $44.
When the patent ran out on Monsanto's formula, Monterey picked up the
ball and made the same stuff. Sew the link below:
Yup. Spending the money on Roundup, because of the name, is foolish
anymore. Look on the label for Glyphosate. (Check the strength, though.
There are some weaker solutions, which will cost you more in the long run.)
Good advice. =)
-Opportunities always look bigger going than coming.
like others, i run a sapling war all year long with roundup. it doesnt
really kill the stump to fast ,but eventually will (years) because if it
cant have leaves it cant live. have long fence rows and find it easier
to spray saplings when little rather than cutting them down when big.
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