I have moss lots of it, but the front yard is the part I'm concerned about,
it's like shag carpet!
anything I should do besides lime the crap out of it?
I know drainage is a cause too but I think it drains OK, I am surrounded by
pine trees also
I suppose I could have it removed and put turf down but I'm CHEAP.
On Wed, 31 Mar 2010 19:27:48 -0400, Clarkky...
Lawn sand, £5 from B & Q, does 135mts. Have to rake it after ten days or
MO Bacter, £35 from classic-lawns.co.uk, does 200 mts. No raking (^_^)
Clarkky... wrote the following:
The only thing that grows under pine trees is moss, or an acidic loving
The third option is mulch.
Grass seed won't grow and sod may not take root and will die.
Google - grass under pine trees
Do you actually check the PH or "wing" it?
most of the moss is not directly under the trees but it is in the general
direction of the rain runoff
I can picture myself having to buy a pallet of lime, my front "yard" is 247'
Actually directly under my pines is just about nothing, these pines are 100
and I have tried acid loving plants, they are dying slowly...
but the lawn is not directly under those trees, the trees I have on the
frontage of the property is
Birch and Maples.
Check it, d00d. Home test kits are cheap, or you can take several samples from
an area of the yard, and take them to your local co-op. They'll give you the
results (probably for a nominal fee), telling you exactly what to put down, and
Won't do much long-term good if you don't keep up with the removal of the pine
Yup. It just might take that much, *if* you have to treat the whole yard. The
whole yard might not need it, though. Break the yard up into areas, take samples
from each area, combine the samples from each specific area in a baggie, and
take it to get tested. That's definately got to be the first thing you do.
There's no sense in guessing what you need in your yard, when the facilities are
available to tell you exactly what you need. ;)
I'd get the testing done pretty soon, also. The optimal time to apply lime is
the fall. EARLY spring works, but the sooner, the better. And, keep in mind that
it's not a permanent fix. If you can bring the pH to 6.5, *and* you keep up with
the pine straw removal diligently, you can expect to repeat the treatment every
4-5 years. So, the cost factor goes up. It's all in how bad you really want a
lawn that will compete with your pine trees.
If it were me, I'd plant shrubs, ferns, and other plants that thrive in
high-acid environments. You'd have the potential to have a pretty cool yard
which doesn't necessarily have to contain a large "lawn" area. Designate
certain, smaller sections to turf (which will be easier on the wallet), and make
other areas landscape beds with appropriate plantings (and maybe hardscape
features (rocks, boulders, a dry creek, etc). Something to think about. =)