Best concrete for setting locast posts ?

I am building a split-rail fence out of locust rails and posts. The posts will be set about 8 feet apart. I plan to dig postholes about 18 inches deep, and set the posts into concrete.

What is the best method, and type of concrete ? My thinking was to use Quickcrete fast-setting concrete. With similar things in the past, I have mixed the concrete with water, and poured the mix in and around the post. But, it seems that I have heard that other folks just pour the dry power in the hole around the post, and allow the moisture in the surrounding soil to harden the mix. Others pour in dry, and then just add a modest amount of water in the hole.

What is the preferred method ??

Thanks for any advice on this !!

James

Reply to
James
Loading thread data ...

Your 18" post hole seems way too shallow for a fence. Better do some more research on local conditions and methods and then worry about concrete mix. Typically, some metal fence posts are 7' tall and 3' into the ground. For a relatively short fence 2' would be a good choice. YMMV

Joe

Reply to
Joe

True enough Joe. He didn't say where he lives, or frost considerations.

Reply to
Steveo

Let's please stick with the concrete question.... these posts will be 18 inches into the ground, and about 40 inches OUT of the ground. Split rails will be placed across the posts. This is a simple three rail fence, not a conventional fence with 6 foot posts.

Perhaps I led you wrong on the facts.

Thanks

James

Reply to
James

Still too short in the ground, concrete or no concrete...

In a few years they'll be laying over.

--

Reply to
dpb

Just plain sand works great. The only posts that should be set in concrete are the ones that need to support a gate.

Reply to
Art

Nope, sorry. Gonna use concrete. My question relates to the best concrete, and the method to plant them.

thanks !!

James

Reply to
James

I would agree. But any set in concrete should not be set completely in concrete- a couple inches of gravel in bottom, then post, then 1/3 or so of the hole with tamped gravel, then concrete. Give the water a place to go, instead of bottom of post always being wet. Locust takes awhile to rot, but anything rots eventually.

aem sends...

Reply to
aemeijers

The best concrete to set posts is none. A couple inches of gravel in the bottom and ALL the dirt back in the hole is the "proper" method.

And 18" is too shallow; a waste of, time, effort, money -and- concrete if you're still set on using it. 30" is minimum and probably code, and 36" is better.

Locust is the best choice for the posts, but you'd be better off setting them on fire rather than in concrete. Nothing lasts forever, try digging out a post set in concrete. By the time you're finished you'll have changed your mind, if you live through it.

The concrete mix doesn't matter, any one will rot your posts as well as another. -----

- gpsman

Reply to
gpsman

I guess I will at least answer your question -

Most big home centers carry "post-set" concrete. You dig the hole, put the post in (with space around it) fill the space around the post with dry mix, add water, and mix it up by pushing a pc of rebar up and down in the "soup". Sets quickly, works fine and is very convenient.

JK

Reply to
Big_Jake

Just curious, but when the wood rots away, how will you replace it? And, you've been told (more than once) that the depth you've chosen isn't deep enough, yet you insist on not heeding advice. You seem to have the answers, so which one would you prefer to be told about the concrete?

Reply to
Eggs Zachtly

TX hill country. Fractured limestone is immediately below the soil. Only a rock bar and alot of sweat, or, a diamond tipped auger can cut it. 18" is typical depth for corner and tensioning posts on typical pasture fence. Wood or steel posts.

Guess answers for this are kinda like gardening, depends on the conditions... Sandy soil, clay, swamp, gravel, or rocky in your case.

I pre-mixed, wetter than usual, the concrete prior to pouring in the hole with the post. Used rocks to stabilize the post during the pour, then fine tuned the plumb after the pour. Set the corners first. Dave

Reply to
Dave

If your posts are dimensional (4x4 or 6x6) the following process worked well for me. If your posts are roundish, then simply set them in the holes with a few inches of gravel in the bottom, and use quickcrete (regular or quick setting - it's up to you.) that has been mixed to a pretty thick consistency. Level the post in all directions and cross-brace for 24 hours before adding attachments.

If using dimentional lumber, the way I did the posts all around my house, is to:

  1. String a centerline along the length of the fence run.
  2. Dig the hole to desired depth (in my case, 24").
  3. Insert 10" sonnet tube that has been cut to desired length/height.
  4. Backfill, leveling the tube along the way.
  5. Mix quickcrete (regular or quick setting - It's up to you.)
  6. Fill the tube with mixed quickcrete.
  7. Set post anchor according to the centerline.
  8. After concrete is dry, test fit posts, mark holes, drill holes, and bolt posts into post anchors.

The fence is now over 14 years old. No rot, no leaning.

Reply to
Abe

We might make a fence with no post holes, just stakes in the ground for cables. Or use T-posts with diagonal corner bracing.

Nick

Reply to
nicksanspam

Sorry, but I must respectfully disagree about putting dry mix in the hole. I have seen this done, but I have never seen it work well - fences were always leaning within 3 or 4 months. It is not possible to mix the concrete in the hole - there will always be dry pockets no matter how much poking and prodding is done.

Mix your concrete in a wheelbarrow and pour it into the hole.

Bob-tx

Reply to
Bob

You can just pour dry mix around the post.if you wish add a little water on top to speed setting.In a few days it will be hard, meanwhile the dry mix will hold the post in place. Be aware the posts will need to be replaced eventually ,then you will have to deal with the concrete.

Reply to
digitalmaster

yeah and they fail faster in concrete.

but as a friend says its your back:)

OP can think about this as he digs up his rotted posts and concrete

Reply to
hallerb

There is no "best". The kind of concrete is irrelevant. As long as it is mixed properly any concrete will do what you want.

Reply to
Art

If OP INSITS on concreting them in secure them in place, tied off with ropes or something, use dry mix its more convenient, leave set tied up a week or so flood area a couple times, so its all hardened

Reply to
hallerb

Since he isn't willing to accept _any_ advice, I wonder why he asked in the first place.

FWIW the only time I used 'crete is for steel posts (chain link) or when setting posts in wet gruound (you can't tamp wet dirt). Last fence I built was 1980 or thereabouts, still rock solid except for a few of the RR ties that have rotted out.

Harry K

Reply to
Harry K

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.